With the poise of an air traffic controller, Elizabeth "Betty" Nunez stands behind the counter of her Napa pizzeria, directing her staff as they turn dough into tasty pizza creations. The workers run back and forth from the prep table to the oven at La Prima Pizzeria on Jefferson, and ferry the piping hot pies to customers at the pick-up counter.

It's the grand opening event at Elizabeth and Aldo Nunez's third pizzeria — the others are in St. Helena and Calistoga — and the husband-and-wife team is hosting a pizza party and classic car show to celebrate the event that has been 10 years in the making.

"We are happy," said Aldo Nunez, as he sat in the office of the pizzeria formerly known as Firehouse Pizza Kitchen at 3070 Jefferson St. "We have been wanting to come to Napa. We hope that we do well."

Outside, Aldo's friends parked their classic cruisers to give a mini-car show to the dozens in attendance. Inside, the aroma of freshly-baked pizzas enticed hungry patrons to come in for a slice of what the Nunez's hope will pave the way someday for a fourth restaurant.

An American dream

Betty Nunez, 35, was a teenager when she began working at La Prima Pizza in St. Helena. The year was 1989 and Nunez, then 17, went to lunch at the popular pizzeria along with her sister and saw a help wanted sign.

What followed for Nunez — who at the time had just arrived in St. Helena from her hometown of El Grullo, Mexico, not knowing a word of English — was the realization of the American Dream.

Powered by an entrepreneurial spirit, Nunez, the only Latina working at the restaurant, learned English as she began bussing tables and washing dishes. From there, she worked her way through just about every job in the pizzeria: making pizzas, drawing up employee schedules, working the cash register and making bank deposits.

After working at the pizzeria for five years as she attended St. Helena High School and studied business at Napa Valley College, Nunez left the job to begin a new life as a bride.

"I always wanted to get married in my hometown," she said.

The celebration took place in El Grullo, where the couple first met during a town celebration. Aldo and Betty Nunez settled in St. Helena, with Aldo supporting the newlyweds by working as an electrician. In 1994, Betty returned to manage La Prima Pizza as a favor to then-owner Warren "Nick" Nicholas, allowing the Nicholas family to vacation in England, she said.

"It was supposed to only be for two months," Nunez said.

Nunez soon learned that Nicholas was selling the business. The Nunez' had only $5,000 in their bank account at the time, so Nicholas generously agreed to finance the rest of the purchase. But they still needed to invest a bit more money, and found investors among their family members.

"The family pulled together," Nunez said.

Today it's common to see Aldo and Betty and many of their family members behind the counters of their restaurants, making pizzas and taking orders.

After five years of running the St. Helena eatery on 1010 Adams St., the Nunezes managed to repay family members and launch a second pizzeria in Calistoga at 1923 Lake St.

Although the bulk of their customers are Upvalley residents, the Nunezes said that many customers would make the trip from Napa to eat at La Prima and would often ask the couple to open up a store in Napa so that they wouldn't have to travel Upvalley to feast.

So, five years after opening the Calistoga restaurant, the Nunezes learned that the owners of Napa's Firehouse Pizza were looking to sell.

"Somebody called us and told us it was for sale," Betty said. "Since it was already a pizzeria, it was going to be easy (to move in)."

Competitive edge

Aldo and Betty Nunez said that they know that in small towns like St. Helena and Calistoga their pizza is ranked at the top — Betty said that pizza enthusiasts voted La Prima Pizza as Napa Valley's Best Pizza in a North Bay Bohemian poll — but in Napa, they face greater competition.

Just a short vicinity from La Prima Pizza, a number of competitors — California Piazza, Mary's Pizza Shack, Pizza Hut, Little Caesars and Round Table Pizza — serve their own versions of perfection on a pan. But what the Nunezes said sets their pizzeria apart is the staff's tendency to learn their customers names — even going as far as giving away Aldo's cell number to customers when there is a problem with service — and their unique creations such as Aldo's Pizza. The spicy pie comes topped with pesto sauce, pepperoni, onions, linguica and jalapeños, adding just the right hint of spice.

Betty Nunez is up for the challenge.

"We were always afraid of competition," she said. "But the sun shines for everyone."