Not exactly the hub of German viniculture, Saxony nevertheless is important to the nation’s wine scenario.

Although the Elbtal — as the Elbe River Valley is called — contains the smallest plot of vines in all of Germany, the legacy of winegrowing here is vital in both economic and historical perspectives.

Planting of the first vines along the Elbe goes back more than 1,000 years, not long after the settlement of Meissen, in this weather-blessed region of Saxony where prized porcelain has been manufactured for three centuries.

Cistercian monks brought winegrowing to Saxony, with the first evidence of viticulture in Meissen dating to 1161. Monks promoted viniculture starting in the 12th century, with vineyard expansion reaching its peak in the 16th century — around 6,000 hectares (close to 15,000 acres) — following Reformation and the subsequent secularization of the monasteries.

Political and economic impacts took their toll so that by the 19th century vineyard plantings were reduced to about 1,700 hectares. Then the spread of pests like phylloxera and fungi like downy mildew nearly wiped out grape production in the region. In the early 1960s, the economy once again provided a boost to viniculture in the former German Democratic Republic. After German reunification in 1990, the vineyard surface was expanded from 200 to 416 hectares with European Union subsidies.

Germany’s smallest wine region, Saxony, along with nearby Saale-Unstrut wine region, make up the northernmost winegrowing region in Europe. They are the only two of Germany’s 13 wine regions that are located in the former East Germany. The winegrowing area of Saxony is situated along the Elbe river from the Pillnitz section of Dresden to the village of Diesbar-Seusslitz located north of Meissen.

Despite the northerly location near the border with the Czech Republic, Saxony enjoys a unique microclimate beneficial to the growing of grapes. The gently sloping, south-facing hills that rise up from the Elbe are ideal for viniculture, as are the loamy and limestone soils and the hot, frequently dry summers. The region has a continental climate that is tempered somewhat by the Elbe.

The Müller-Thurgau grape is the leading planting in Saxony at nearly 20 percent of total annual production, followed by riesling at 15 percent and pinot blanc at around 13 percent. While there are considerable plantings of pinot noir, the region also boasts ample tracts of dornfelder — a red grape of increasing importance that produces slightly floral and velvety textured wine that can produce more drinking pleasure than pinot noir — and elbling, one of the oldest known cultivated vines in the world whose fruit produces a light and fruity wine and can add a shade of complexity to sparkling wine from the region.

Dynasty redux

Restored to its proper place in Saxon winegrowing, the family behind the winery located at the magnificent Proschwitz Castle is proving once again wines from the Elbland can compete with those from the more familiar regions of unified Germany.

Schloss Proschwitz is located just outside the renowned porcelain capital of Meissen, founded in the 10th century and Saxony’s capital long before Dresden. Meissen is known for its medieval center, Gothic cathedral and Albrecht castle. The cradle of European porcelain, Meissen’s state-owned manufacturing facility is slated to celebrate its 300th anniversary next year.

The family that owns Schloss Proschwitz traces its history back to German nobility at the beginning of the 12th century and, until 1918, belonged to the nation’s ruling dynasties. The family of Dr. George Prince zur Lippe has lived in Saxony since the beginning of the 18th century. In 1945, the family was expropriated without compensation, incarcerated and shipped off to West Germany.

Starting in 1990, Prince zur Lippe bought back the family’s wine estate and, following long negotiations, also bought back the family home, Schloss Proschwitz. Since then, he has spent more than 10 million euros to rebuild the winery and restore the castle to its former splendor. Personally committed to the task, Prince zur Lippe has turned a 300-year-old farmhouse and outbuildings into a state-of-the-art winery.

Wines of Schloss Proschwitz are made from sustainably farmed grapes grown on the winery estate and on a prized nearby tract called Kloster Heilig Kreuz.

The largest plantings for Schloss Proschwitz wines are grauburgunder (pinot gris), followed by weissburgunder (pinot blanc) and Müller-Thurgau, an early ripening variety enjoyed in Germany for its aromatics. Other substantial plantings among the     13 grape varieties grown on the two sites are elbling, spätburgunder (pinot noir), riesling, dornfelder and traminer.

Eager to give its wines a modern-day look, the package boasts slender green bottles with dark red and dark green tin capsules — plus labels without traditional wine gobblydegook of former times — boxed in six packs, a majority of which are attractive wooden boxes. Production at present is 400,000 bottles annually, with plans to more than double that amount in a decade or so.

Schloss Proschwitz is open for tours as well as special events. Manyimportant civic events – which include tastings, lunches and dinners — are held here.

The oldest and largest privately owned winery in former Eastern Germany, Schloss Proschwitz is a beautifully restored castle home with elegant furnishings (some of which are from the pre-WWII era) on a sprawling estate featuring well-manicured gardens and vineyards. It’s well worth taking time to visit, especially for those who might be attending festivities in Meissen next year.

A tasting of a dozen or so Schloss Proschwitz wines — conducted by a keen English-speaking member of the public relations/marketing team, Jörg Fiedler — had friends and I oohing and aahing over the newest releases and a couple of library wines:

Schloss Proschwitz 2008 Weissburgunder Kabinett Trocken (11.50 euros): A lovely floral expression of this terrific varietal, an integrated, refined pinot blanc displaying the mineral of its place and inviting stone fruit on the palate. The wine also has lively, but not aggressive acid. Best of all, the alcohol is a mere            11.5 percent, which means you can drink a lot more of it. Vielen Dank!

Schloss Proschwitz 2008 Kloster Heilig Kreuz Grauburgunder Kabinett (15 euros): The first harvest from this  newly planted vineyard closer to Meissen has produced a pinot gris with a little less perfume than its counterpart. There’s a slight mineral component to the fruity nose, a wine with an angular palate and delightful citrus notes.

Schloss Proschwitz 2008 Sachsen Grauburgunder Spätlese Trocken (15 euros): A lovely floral nose is matched by intense honeyed layers of ripe stone fruit and mineral. There’s a delicious yin and yang finish to this late harvest wine — sweet fruit offset by bracing lemon/lime.

Schloss Proschwitz 2006 Drei Muskatiere Weissburgunder (16 euros): The first sip intrigues, for at first it seems like a simple wine. However, one soon discovers layers of ripe white peaches and apricots well balanced with bright acid. The long, long finish keeps you coming back for more. The alcohol on this one is a bit higher, at 13.5 percent. 

Schloss Proschwitz 2008 Traminer Spätlese Trocken (10 euros): A very attractive wine that incorporates both spice and perfume for which the variety is known. There’s a rose petal nose, a refreshing spice mid-palate and lively fruit that jumps out of the glass.

Schloss Proschwitz 2008 Riesling Spätlese (15 euros): A wine that prompts mental images with its inviting bouquet — images of a cool morning in a flower garden at the height of the summer season. You experience a refreshing mouthful of citrus and lychees, a well-balanced and lively expression of some of the northernmost riesling grown in Germany.

Schloss Proschwitz 2006 Drei Muskatiere Spätburgunder (22 euros): A wine that spent 16 months in oak, this pinot noir has both lively nose and smooth tannins and tastes of sour cherries baked in a pie. I was surprised that the variety ripened to this extent in this far north region.

Schloss Proschwitz 2007 Scheurebe Auslese (20 euros): A terrific representation of this prized German grape, it’s a late harvest wine with lots of complexity, lovely acid, ripe fruit that at times tastes of currants, at others imparts a bit of grapefruit on the finish. It’s obvious that the cellar team here knows the variety and coaxes the best from vineyard to cellar.                              

Schloss Proschwitz, located some 15 minutes outside Meissen, has a tradition of hosting events bonding wine, art and culture. It also hosts its own Christmas Market in the courtyard. This lovely estate also offers visitors guesthouse-style accommodations. It’s a terrific place to taste wine, explore the Elbe valley and have the cities of Dresden and Meissen on your doorstep.

Unfortunately, only a few of the wines are available for purchase on Internet sites.