For the better part of this decade, Michael Gyetvan has hung his hat on gourmet pizza.

The veteran wine country chef and his wife, Christina, launched Azzurro Pizzeria in September of 2001, attracting pizza lovers to downtown Napa to chow down on tomato pies that featured everything from figs to finocchio, gorgonzola to garlic, salsicce to ricotta salata.

In February of 2008, the Gyetvans relocated the pizzeria and enoteca to new digs at the corner of Main and Clinton streets. With larger quarters and an attractive wine bar came an expanded menu.

Added to the chef’s popular pizza and pasta offerings were a varied and quite tempting selection of antipasti and insalata.

Gyetvan and chef de cuisine Steven Hurn are attracting locals and wine country visitors with a seasonal menu that appeals to the full range of diners — from those who just want a quick bite to those who could eat the proverbial horse.

Even if you’re dropping by Azzurro Pizzeria with the idea of only sharing a pizza with friends or family, you can’t help but notice the mouthwatering selection of antipasti. Before you know it, you’re ordering one — or two — OK, OK, maybe three.

The kitchen loves to offer seasonal fare to diners, evidenced by the daily changing menu that incorporates, among other things, asparagus, corn, cauliflower, beets, artichokes, Brussels sprouts, figs and fresh herbs.

One item diners can count on finding most days is the ancient grain, farro, tossed with seasonal ingredients like roasted corn, fava beans and grilled summer squash.

The original grain from which all others derive, as well as the standard ration of Roman legions, farro is one of the healthiest grains there is. “I just love farro,” noted Gyetvan during a break between lunch and dinner crowds the other day. It reminds me of barley but tastes a little nuttier. It’s also quite similar (in appearance) to quinoa.

“I like it this time of year … it lends itself to summer … any vegetable goes with it. Right now we’re serving it with roasted corn and pecorino pepato, pecorino cheese infused with peppercorns. But I also like to toss it with roasted beets or serve it with grilled asparagus tossed with a little olive oil.”

Gyetvan talked about some of his favorite antipasti dishes, served room temperature at Azzurro Pizzeria:

• Roasted Brussels sprouts with the outer leaves caramelized, tossed with diced pancetta, onion, thyme and sherry vinegar.

• Roasted cauliflower florets tossed with smashed garlic cloves, capers and red chile flakes.

• Roasted beets — red, golden, Chioggia — with Skyhill goat cheese and snipped mint.

• Roasted figs, halved, tossed with balsamic vinegar, thyme and extra virgin olive oil, then topped with fresh ricotta.

One of his favorite warm antipasti offerings features Rancho Gordo white beans with Sonoma’s Caggiano sausage, topped with grilled shrimp.

Then there’s a whole array of seasonal bruschetta. This past spring, one of the favorite toppings for the grilled bread was artichokes with burrata, that luscious cream-filled ball of mozzarella. This past week, he topped the crunchy slices with some of the season’s first cherry tomatoes.

Other toppings include white bean puree drizzled with saba (cooked grape must); caponata, the Sicilian eggplant relish with roasted peppers and balsamic reduction; chopped chicken livers; and herbed Skyhill goat cheese spread with roasted corn kernels and oregano.

A new venture

A veteran of 10 years as chef de cuisine at St. Helena’s Tra Vigne and Real American Restaurants, Gyetvan will open a second downtown Napa eatery later this year.

Named for family members, the new project, Norman Rose Tavern, will be located in the new Napa Square building at the corner of First and Franklin streets.

“I intend for it to be a comfortable, cozy American tavern serving American food — burgers, sandwiches, big salads and lots of draft beer — with TVs to watch the game. We’ll serve lunch and dinner daily.”

The design makes use of recycled materials and accommodates patrons in comfortable red booths and banquettes, says the owner.

Currently a member of the Azzurro Pizzeria team, Reed Herrick will serve as chef de cuisine at Norman Rose Tavern. It is slated to open in early December.

Azzurro Pizzeria is located at 1260 Main St., Napa. It is open from 11:30 a.m. to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Friday and from 5 to 10 p.m. Saturday and Sunday. For reservations, call 255-5552.