From Brest to Toulouse, veteran chef prepares traditional favorites
When California native Ken Frank decided to forge a career as a professional chef, he looked to France for basic cooking technique.
Frank spent a substantial chunk of his salad days working in the medieval village of Yvoire, located on Lake Geneva in the Rhone-Alpes region of France.
“France is not all that large a country, yet the regional diversity (of its cuisine) is spectacular,” the veteran wine country chef said during a conversation at Bank Café and Bar in the Westin Verasa the other day.
The touted Mediterranean diet can be found in homes and restaurants throughout Provence, he said, where tomatoes, olive oil and fresh seafood are the norm. “Yet you can drive half a day and wind up in Normandy where they don’t use olive oil at all — everything is cooked with butter.
“Alsace is renowned for its goose, sausage, sauerkraut and beer, while the region where I lived was known for freshwater fish, potatoes and cheese.”
Frank’s love of regional French cookery prompted him to develop a program of special prix-fixe menus for the informal Bank Café and Bar.
Regional cuisine of France menus were initially offered once a week when the program was launched earlier this year. The offerings were extended next to four days a week.
“We initially offered these menus at $36 per person,” Frank said, but he didn’t feel he got the attention of the dining public.
So he lowered the three-course menu price to $29 and has now started to attract a number of locals, even people driving over to Napa from Sonoma County.
“In this economy, we had to put the price where it needed to be — so it offers great value to our customers. After all, this is food that doesn’t have to be expensive.”
Frank and his wife, Sherylle, were dining at a North Bay restaurant one evening last year when the idea for the current program came to mind. “Frankly, the meal wasn’t very good. It was French food, but it just wasn’t done very well. I felt I could do a lot better … it just needs to be done right. After all, it’s simple fare and we are blessed with great products in this part of the world.
“It’s bistro cooking, done right. For example, coq au vin needs love (as part of the preparation). It’s a dish that’s either really good or just chicken (cooked) in wine.”
The regional French menu changes every Monday and is now offered daily from 5 to 11 p.m. For reservations, call 257-5151.
This week’s menu salutes the region of France known for its Celtic heritage, Brittany. It features Bisque de Homard, Roast Lamb Loin with Braised Cabbage and Crème Brûlée.
Menus for the rest of the year are:
Nov. 23 to 29 — selections from the Burgundy region — Escargots Bourguignonne, Coq au Vin, Nouilles Fraîches and Profiteroles.
Nov. 30 to Dec. 6 — Antibes, a city on the Mediterranean Sea, is showcased, with diners offered Pissaladière, Soupe de Poissons and Ile Flottante.
Dec. 7 to 13 — The restaurant pays tribute to Normandy, featuring Steamed Mussels Mariniere, Blanquette de Veau and Crepes with Roasted Apples and Crème Chantilly.
Dec. 14 to 20 — The inspiration is Lyon. Salade Frisée with Lardons and Poached Farm Egg, Saucisson Lyonnais with Potato Puree and Cinnamon Crème Brûlée give diners a taste of what it’s like to dine in a city with the reputation as France’s capital of gastronomy.
Dec. 21 to 28 — Frank celebrates the Basque region of France and Spain by offering Bilbao-Style Seafood Stew; Braised Chicken with Tomatoes, Peppers and Beans; and Gateau Basque.
While Frank is also executive chef at La Toque, the Bank Café and Bar is in the lobby of the Westin Verasa, Napa, located on McKinstry Street at the intersection of Soscol Avenue, approximately two blocks east of downtown Napa.
Posted in Food-and-cooking on Tuesday, November 17, 2009 12:00 am Updated: 1:21 pm.
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