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Bucephalus - a horse of a different stripe
Friday, October 16, 2009
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A substantial number of Napa Valley wineries put together a blend of their best wine lots, releasing a tête-de-cuvée indicative of cellar quality.

These top-of-the-line proprietary blends are, more often than not, reserved for sparkling and red wines, although a few vintners also produce special white wines with vineyard pedigree.
Last weekend, the owners and employees of Black Stallion Winery invited friends, members of their wine club, neighbors, others in the industry and the media to the release of its consummate, small lot blend.

Terry and Gretchen Maglich’s Silverado Trail winery is located on the site of a well known wine country equestrian center.
So, it seemed apropos that their ne plus ultra blend is named Bucephalus, a majestic name for a horse with considerable pedigree.

“Alexander the Great rode a single horse into every battle — a majestic black stallion named Bucephalus (bu-sef-a-lus),” noted Maglich. “In creating this wine, we honor the timeless spirit of beauty and strength. Carefully blended to display both intensity and elegance, this exceptional red wine is made in limited quantities from our best lots.”
This was the second release of Black Stallion’s proprietary blend. In the year since the initial release of the 2005 proprietary wine, the folks at Black Stallion have undertaken a complete redo of the package — new bottle, new etched label, new capsule, new closure, along with a new wine.

Winemaker Elaine St. Clair — who spent a decade at Domaine Chandon and nearly a decade at Domaine Carneros making sparkling and still wines — said the 2006 Bucephalus is a blend of cabernet sauvignon and syrah.

There is cabernet from three distinct vineyards in the 2006 blend — mountain fruit from Atlas Peak, grapes from the hottest microclimate in the county, Calistoga, which provides the blend’s “jammy quality,” plus quality fruit from cooler Yountville — as well as a modest amount of cool climate syrah from Coombsville.

Bucephalus is aged in new French oak barrels for 24 months. Production is limited at 200 cases. The wine is sold for the most part to wine club members and on the winery Web site. It is also available at a few restaurants in the region.

Black Stallion Winery Bucephalus 2006 Red Wine Blend ($150): This is a complex wine with elegance dominating everything from package to palate. A rich, inviting bouquet wafts cherries and strong hints of freshly raked blueberries. A finesse blend that tickles the palate from entry to long, long finish with a mixture of red and black fruit, finally fading on a note of Maine blueberry compote. The 14.5 percent alcohol is masked by a delicious, mouth-filling, tongue-coating blend of ripe fruit. While it’s not inexpensive, Bucephalus, nevertheless, is a first-rate wine for a special occasion, for those who don’t mind putting money where their mouth is concerned.
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