From sod to sustainable
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AFTER: LEAN AND GREEN — Landscape designer Karlyn Williams turned her talents to her own yard when she decided to reduce her water usage by replacing her old lawn, bottom, with native plants, below. Submitted photos |
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How to replace your lawn with drought-tolerant plants
By KARLYN WILLIAMS
Special to the Register
Awareness is growing in California about the use and conservation of our water supply. When I analyzed the yearly water usage in my own household, I concluded that removing the unused front lawn and replacing it with a native plant environment would significantly decrease our water needs and increase the usability and curb appeal of our home.
After planning, I completed my project, on a part-time basis, in three weeks. I chose a native plant palette of visually appealing trees, shrubs and perennials. Using only California natives was a challenge at first but as I became more familiar with our native plants, I found that I didn’t need any ‘exotics’ to punctuate the design. The local and migratory birds and insects will, I hope, enjoy my selections as well.
Perhaps you’ve been thinking about replacing your lawn with drought-tolerant and sustainable plantings. You’ll recover the immediate costs over time with a lower water bill and yard maintenance costs. Plus you’ll have a diverse, colorful and lively garden to enjoy.
Let me describe, step by step, how to complete a project such as mine.
First, measure the area you’re addressing and draw a simple plot plan on graph paper. At this point, I sketched in a seating area, stepping stone paths and plant locations. I researched plant providers and adjusted the design as to what species were available.
Use flags, stakes or string to mark off the space you’ll be modifying.
Call PG&E at 1 (800) 227-2600. They will notify all your utility suppliers to visit and flag your water, sewer, gas and electric lines. A PG&E employee showed up at my house only two hours after my call.
Run your irrigation system, and locate all the sprinkler heads. We simply cut the existing sub-surface PVC piping at the valve box and attached filters, pressure regulators and drip line to the existing valves. Each valve can keep 200 feet of drip line under pressure. The sprinkler heads themselves were not going to be used and so we unscrewed them from their subterranean bases.
At this point, I rounded up some very strong friends to help complete the process.
Dig out any plants you may be relocating, giving away or composting.
To remove the turf, you can rent a sod cutter or chop it out with an adze and flat shovel. You’ll probably need a big truck or rented debris box to haul away all the plant material. You can also kill the sod by using a sheet mulch technique in winter time.
Spread some amended top soil to bring the plot almost up to grade, leaving 1 to 2 inches for mulch later. Native plants don’t require the extra nutrition but they do need good drainage.
Re-evaluate your plot plan, make any changes and put flags in your layout. At this point, I eliminated a path and added a site for a bird bath.
The heavy materials are next. Boulders, fountains and any paving can be roughed in and adjusted. If you’re pouring concrete, now is the time to do it.
The really fun part is placing the plants. You’ve gathered what you’ve chosen and they are ready to go into the ground. I used about 100 plants for 840 square feet. Your plant list should have detailed information regarding mature height and width, deciduous or evergreen, full sun to shade, bloom color and bloom time.
After the plants are spotted, take some time to think about the lay-out and re-adjust as needed.
Install the plants. Natives like to be transplanted 1/2 to 3/4 inches higher than grade and their roots disturbed as little as possible. Be sure to unwind or clip off circling roots.
Unroll your irrigation line in the sun to soften it, then wrap and stake it down gently throughout the space. It can be coaxed into a shallow trench. I prefer to use the drip line with the interior emitters. “Techline” is one brand. Turn on your irrigation valves to check for leaks or kinks.
Mulch the entire area 1 to 2 inches deep. Mini-bark is especially attractive.
After some sweeping and hosing, step back and admire your accomplishment. You’ve installed a beautiful, practical landscape that requires no mowing, fertilizing, and, after two years, very little water.
Karlyn Williams is the owner of Garden Concepts Lanscape Design, which helps bring bring landscape vision to life, be it drought-tolerant, tropical or formal in style. Her company also offers garden coaching for novices. She can be reached at 259-5487.
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