Recent Hess releases

By L. PIERCE CARSON
Register Staff Writer

A longtime fan of Hess Collection and its lotta-bang-for-buck mega-production wines, friends and I popped the corks on four of the winery’s recent releases at a dinner party last weekend.

Including three limited production offerings, all four wines are exceptional — and quite reasonable — so it’s most appropriate to share the good news.

Founded by Swiss businessman Donald Hess three decades ago, the Hess Collection Winery was launched with the purchase of 900 acres on Mount Veeder. Hess not only planted vines but set aside 600 acres to support wildlife and, with viticulturist/winemaker Randle Johnson, implemented a vineyard program that incorporated fish friendly farming practices.

Together, they promoted sustainable winegrowing practices. And, in 1992, they hosted more than 100 vintners from Napa and Sonoma counties at the country’s first sustainable farming symposium, featuring practitioners from Europe and Australia.

A pioneer in sustainability, the Hess Collection Winery welcomed its current director of winemaker, Dave Guffy, in the late ’90s and has continued to produce quality wines that also offer great value to the consumer.

It’s as plain as the nose on one’s face that the attention the folks at Hess have paid to the environment has paid off in spades in the company’s outstanding wines — whether they’re made from fruit grown on Mount Veeder, in the flight path of Napa County Airport, on Howell Mountain or in the cooler climes of Mendocino.

Here’s the skinny on four new Hess Collection releases:

Hess 2007 Su’skol Vineyard Chardonnay ($25): One of the winery’s single vineyard estate offerings, this is a terrific medium-bodied white made from grapes grown on a 175-acre south country vineyard named for the native tribe that once farmed the land. It’s located on an ancient sea bed with sandy clay and limestone soils that yield small berries with intense fruit and vibrant acidity. And I think the cooling marine influences contribute to the flavor profile of the grapes. This is an aromatic wine with lots of tropical fruit and a creamy mouthfeel, and it finishes with crisp flavors of citrus and stonefruit. It’s a great sipper and a nice accompaniment to cheese. About 3,000 cases were produced. A great price for a first rate chardonnay.

Hess 2007 Mount Veeder Chardonnay ($35): Produced from grapes grown at the 900 foot elevation on the mountain estate, this is a chardonnay that highlights the Hess finesse. Blended with some unique musque clones, the floral nose on this wine gives way to a crisp, fruit-forward mouthful of stonefruit with a hint of minerality. As the wine did not go through malolactic fermentation, it retains bright acidity and lush fruit flavors. From nose to finish, this is an elegant, appealing wine —  ideal for pairing with a variety of food, from cheese to shellfish, spring vegetables to sand dabs. And worth every cent. About 1,800 cases produced.

Hess 2007 Small Block Series Viognier ($25): A blend of fruit from Veeder Summit and Veeder Hills vineyards, this viognier has an intoxicating stonefruit aroma. I could have kept my nose in this glass all night long. Again, a lush wine with mid-palate nectarine concentration and ample fruit on the finish. Barrel fermented in neutral French oak (no malolactic), this is a lovely viognier that’s ideal for sipping on the deck this summer. And the price is right. Approximately 500 cases.

Hess 2006 Allomi Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ($25): Harvested from part of the original Spanish land grant at the eastern base of Howell Mountain, the grapes for this medium-boded cabernet come from the site’s best blocks. Another lush wine from the Hess portfolio, with soft tannins and ripe fruit. Bing cherries, cassis, Santa Rosa plums and a hint of baking spice wash over the palate and linger ever so slightly on the finish. You can drink this one now — great with grilled meats and roasted veggies, we discovered the other evening —  or put it aside for a few years, as I suspect it will be even better with a little age on it. This is one we can afford — a real bargain at $25 a bottle. And if you can afford a case, remember there’s the case discount. Winemaker Guffy can be proud of this one. About 25,000 cases produced, so there should be plenty to go around.

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