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Bardessono features upscale dining destination
Teaming up in The Restaurant at Bardessono, Yountville’s new luxury resort, are German-born food and beverage director Marc Hartenfels, left, most recently a staffer at Bouchon, and executive chef Sean O’Toole, hospitality industry veteran who served previously as group operations chef for San Francisco restaurateur Michael Mina. L. Pierce Carson/Register | Buy photos
Tuesday, February 10, 2009
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Simple, sustainable food is the hallmark of wine country’s newest dining destination, The Restaurant at Bardessono, the recently opened “green” luxury resort in Yountville.

In line with executive chef Sean O’Toole’s sustainably farmed, ingredient-driven menu is the dining room’s understated elegance, a combination of earth tones, muted colors, rich fabrics and recycled wood, with a massive freeform Monterey cypress service table as its focal point. Reclaimed redwood from a once-productive wine tank serves as ceiling for an adjacent intimate lounge that serves an intriguing selection of mixologist Thad Vogler’s wine country cocktails.
More than 150 diners can be accommodated in both dining room and outdoor patio, staffed by a number of multilingual hospitality industry veterans assembled by Wiesbaden, Germany, native Marc Hartenfels, resort food and beverage director.

O’Toole, former group operations chef for San Francisco chef/restaurateur Michael Mina’s restaurant group, has put together a menu reflecting northern California’s cornucopia of riches. He has partnered  with some of the area’s esteemed organic gardeners and sustainable fisheries in order to achieve his vision.
For example, O’Toole has the luxury of sourcing just-picked fruit from Peter Jacobsen’s legendary Yountville orchards; juicy, antibiotic- and hormone-free Pekin Duck from Sonoma’s Liberty; and oysters, mussels, clams and other briny Pacific delights from local purveyors like the Monterey Fish Market.

Organic herb and vegetable beds and fruit trees on Bardessono’s historic farmstead property give O’Toole’s kitchen another prized resource. Culinary gardener Noel Lopreore tends Lucy’s Garden at Bardessono along with a half-acre CCOF-certified garden at Yountville’s Hill Family Farm.
Prior to settling in the Bay Area, O’Toole worked with some of the hospitality industry’s most respected culinary talents, including France’s Alain Ducasse and New York’s Daniel Boulud. However, the Johnson & Wales-trained chef says it was San Francisco’s Michael Tusk, owner of Quince, who inspired him to collaborate with area farmers, a collaboration that will influence his cooking at The Restaurant at Bardessono.

Ranging in price from $26 for Hook & Line Atlantic Cod to $35 for Marin Sun Farm New York sirloin with shallot/pepper marmalade and steak fries, the opening dinner menu features Bodega Bay halibut with Rose Finn potatoes and Sausalito Springs watercress, roasted Pacific blue nose bass with braised fennel and orange marmalade, petrale sole with a blanquette of winter vegetables, roasted breast and leg-stuffed cannelloni of Petaluma Heritage chicken, crispy skin breast and braised leg of Liberty Farm duck and roasted as well as curry braised Watson’s Napa Valley lamb with coconut basmati rice.

While a few of the offerings on the dinner menu are also available at lunch, the chef’s midday selections include a half-dozen appetizers ($11-$19) — Green Gulch beet salad with burrata cheese, sunchoke soup with Sonoma Coast black trumpet mushrooms, a farmers market vegetable salad “a la Grecque,” Tomales Bay oysters and a charcuterie platter of house made patés and cured meats — plus four attractive sandwiches ($11-$15) — pumpkin panini with herb pasta salad, Hog Island Oyster “po boy,” Becker’s Farm pulled pork on Texas toast and Marin Sun Farm burger with steak fries.

Lunch is served from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. Monday through Friday, with brunch offered from 10:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m. on Saturday and Sunday. Dinner service is provided daily from 5:30 to 10 p.m.

The Restaurant at Bardessono also serves breakfast daily from 7 to 10:30 a.m. Menu offerings range in price from $3 for Hill Family Farm seasonal whole fruit to $14 for an organic egg omelette with Sonoma Coast mushrooms and crispy potatoes. Daily eye-openers include a croque madame with house-cured ham and Gruyere cheese, multi-grain griddle cakes with quince preserves, housemade granola, Irish steel cut oats, house-smoked steelhead trout with cream cheese on dark rye, a selection of daily breakfast pastries as well as the classic two farm eggs with traditional accompaniments.

The wine list at Bardessono was assembled by well-known consultant Chris Blanchard, who’s been responsible for lists at other wine country restaurants like Redd and Cuvée.

While prices are some of the highest in the valley, The Restaurant’s wine list nevertheless is one of the valley’s broadest selections of Old and New World offerings. It also provides diners an opportunity to select bottles from wineries that practice biodynamic farming and those who farm sustainably.

The wine-by-the-glass list contains 18 selections, only one of which is under $10.

Examples of the scope of the list and pricing are: sparkling wine and Champagne — Schramsberg 2005 Blanc de Blancs ($64), Roederer Estate Anderson Valley ($48), Krug Grande Cuvée ($350); sauvignon blanc — Cliff Lede 2007 ($46), Robert Mondavi 2006 Fumé Blanc Reserve ($75); international whites — Brundlmayer Kamptal Grüner Veltliner ($50), Robert Weil 2007 Rheingau Riesling ($62), Dr. Loosen 2007 Mosel Spatlese ($76); California chardonnay — Chappellet 2007 ($64), Far Niente 2005 ($80), Kongsgaard 2006 ($155), Patz & Hall 2007 ($75), Ramey 2005 Hudson Vineyard ($114); Burgundy — Henri Gouges 2005 1er Cru Les Chenes Carteaux ($165), Clerget 2002 Chambolle-Musigny ($98), Drouhin-Laroze Chapelle-Chambertin Grand Cru 1999 ($215); Rhone varietals — Domaine du Vieux Telegraphe 2005 Châteauneuf-du-Pape ($140), Lewis 2005 Napa Valley Syrah ($115), Diligence 2006 Stagecoach Vineyard Syrah ($94); Cabernet Sauvignon — Araujo 2005 Eisele Vineyard ($525), Caymus 2006 Napa Valley ($145), Dominus 1999 ($325), Kelham Vineyards 2001 Oakville ($134), Marston Family 2005 Spring Mountain District ($192), Opus One 2005 ($380); O’Shaughnessy 2005 Howell Mountain ($150); Paradigm 2004 Oakville ($125), Shafer 2004 Hillside Select ($445).

The Restaurant at Bardessono is located at 6526 Yount St., Yountville. For reservations and additional information, call 204-6030.
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