A warm welcome for chill-chasing soups
October 6th, 2009
September 1st, 2009
A frosty morning is Mother Nature’s cry for hearty fare that warms us from the inside out. A steaming bowl of robust soup is a delicious answer. Cream, roux or pureed vegetables are often used to make a rich and velvety base for bisque or chowder. Another great way to fortify and thicken a tasty broth is a handful of savory whole grains. From Tuscany to Oaxaca, cooks the world over have guarded this secret for centuries. Not only do grains deliver thickening power — they add texture and distinctive nuances that pump up the flavor.
No matter what the season, there is always a versatile array of whole grains from which to choose. High in protein, complex carbs and fiber, they’re also rich in minerals. And their antioxidant activity is on par with many fruits, and exceeds most vegetables. Here are a few delicious ways to spike your whole grain intake while enjoying the lingering fullness of a steaming bowl of soup.
In Oaxaca, Mexico, chileatole is a prized local concoction. A richly seasoned soup, it is fortified with corn. Traditionally used to make tortillas and tamales, masa harina (or corn flour) is also used to thicken soups and stews. A very finely ground cornmeal, masa harina is quickly whisked into a simmering broth. The fine grains take only minutes to plump and thicken. Roast Tamale Soup is a variation of a Oaxacan chileatole recipe. Like many Oaxacan soups, it integrates the richness of masa harina not only for the thickening it renders, but also for the nutty flavor it imparts.
In Ecuador, fanesca is an ancient soup recipe steeped in religious tradition. As Catholicism is the predominant religious force here, it permeates most holiday traditions and customs, including the cuisine. Each year, Semana Santa is the Holy Week preceding Easter Sunday. This sacred time coincides with the spring Equinox and regional grain harvesting. Fanesca, the celebratory chowder of Holy Week, is thickened with grains and beans or legumes. Though there are many variations, some family recipes honor a legend to include 12 different grains, one for each of the Apostles.
Other fanesca ingredients include peanuts, usually ground. Native to South America, peanuts are an excellent source of protein, and are often added to their soups and stews. In fact, Ecuador may have more varieties of peanuts than any other country in the world. Coconut milk and yucca are other typical ingredients, along with plantains, which are often used as a garnish. Thin slices of salt cod crown the soup, to symbolize abstinence from meat during this Lenten period. As East Indian kitchens have their own distinctive curry blends, and Mexican families their prized mole recipes, so do Ecuadorian families prepare their fanesca differently. Legends of the soup’s content and origin vary widely. The grains may include beans, corn, lentils and/or rice. No matter which combination, fanesca is an anticipated and heartwarming tradition each Good Friday.
Usually served as a creamy and sumptuous sidedish, polenta (coarsely ground cornmeal) also plays a starring role in a classic Italian soup called Jota (pronouncedy yo-ta). The recipe knows many variations, though beans and sauerkraut are always included. Sauerkraut in Italy? Yes, it’s fairly common in the Trieste region, which was at one time part of the Austrian Empire.
A slow simmer of sweet and creamy cannellini beans with the crunch and tang of pickled cabbage yields a surprising sensation of flavor and texture. This piquant stew of caramelized onions, garlic, polenta, beans and sauerkraut is so hearty, you won’t miss adding meat — though some Jota connoisseurs insist on adding sausage.
And in Southern Italy, another regional grain-spiked masterpiece is zuppa di farro. It may not herald a religious celebration or even a holiday, but it’s always prepared with pride. A mosaic of tender vegetables is slowly simmered in flavorful stock with farro, a firm and chewy grain. Farro is often served in salads or with legumes. Though it is sometimes confused with spelt, farro has a much longer cooking time. It must be soaked overnight and cooked slowly for an hour or two. In a variation of zuppa di farro, Italian vegetable soup uses bulgur wheat instead, to significantly reduce the cooking time. The result is a tasty and satisfying soup, rich in flavor, color and texture.
Though perfect on a blustery day, these chill-chasing soups can be savored year-round. Each distinctive in its own way, they’re hearty enough to stand alone as a main course. Just add a crunchy salad, whole-grain rolls and — let it snow!
Cheryl Forberg RD is a professional chef and nutritionist for NBC’s The Biggest Loser. She is the author of “Positively Ageless: A 28-Day Plan for a Younger, Slimmer, Sexier You.” For recipes and more information visit her Web site at www.cherylforberg.com.
The goal of the story comments section at NapaValleyRegister.com is to have an open, thought-provoking, civil community forum for all issues.
What gets your comment posted?
• Staying on topic
• Keeping your comment to 300 words or less
• Avoiding name-calling
• Addressing your comments to the message rather than the messenger
What gets your comment deleted?
• Personal attacks
• Derogatory remarks
• Name-calling of any sort
• Going off-topic
• Hate speech
• Racially-insensitive comments
• Implying guilt of a subject in a crime story before there is a court verdict
• Posting e-mail addresses
• Posting comments of a commercial nature
• POSTING WITH ALL CAPITAL LETTERS
• Linking multiple comments together with "to be continued..." to get around the 300 word limit.
The fine print
- Comments are either approved or denied. We do not edit comments.
- You are welcome to modify and resubmit a denied comment.
- Comments may take several hours to be posted.
- Comments posted are those of the writer, and do not necessarily reflect the opinion of NapaValleyRegister.com, its employees or its parent company.
- Do you have information on a story? Please go to our
virtual newsroom to send us a news tip.
- If you feel a posted comment has violated our guidelines, please contact
online@napanews.com or add a comment indicating you have an issue and our moderators will review the comment in question.