Everything’s coming up ‘ono’

By L. PIERCE CARSON, Register Staff Writer

Travelers can almost count on bumping into a friend or business associate these days when visiting popular vacation destinations.

Just prior to Christmas, I was sauntering along Paoakalani Street in the heart of Honolulu’s Waikiki Beach when I spotted a familiar face approaching from the opposite direction. After the double take of recognition, Joe Fairchild cut short a cell phone conversation so we could catch up on our reasons for being in Paradise at that very moment.

I was taking a holiday vacation, staying in a nearby hotel. Seems that Fairchild, who headed up the Napa Valley Dean & DeLuca operation for a number of years, was residing in a high-rise just down the street. He’s now vice president of marketing for Better Brands, a division of Young’s Market Company, wholesaler of fine wine and spirits in the western states.

Of course the talk turned to the wine industry and eateries featuring Napa Valley wines on their lists.

I also told Fairchild about my discovery of a superior rum from Martinique and that I intended to visit a relatively new beachfront venue — RumFire in the Sheraton Waikiki — to see if they featured Rhum Clement’s Creole Shrubb among the 101 rums offered, reportedly the largest selection of rums at a single establishment in the United States.

Wouldn’t you know it? Fairchild not only supplies a great deal of RumFire’s stock, he’s also a fan of the tapas-styled menu featured at the popular watering hole smack dab in the middle of Waikiki Beach.

Fairchild informed me that RumFire’s new general manager, Jed Inductivo, is a savvy member of the hospitality industry — relocated to the islands from Brooklyn — and is somebody I need to know. So we agreed to get together at sunset the following evening so I could check out this hot new nightspot.

RumFire is everything Fairchild says it is, and then some. There’s no doubting that rum is the featured product here, with floor-to-ceiling displays serving as barback decor and a leather-bound book (much like those used for wine) outlining the wide range of offerings. There are rums from Brazil, Jamaica, Barbados, Martinique, Puerto Rico and other Caribbean hot spots, including some pre-embargoed rums from Cuba. As if you couldn’t guess, rum is also the featured spirit in the cocktails here — a lot more are offered than just the traditional Mai Tai and Pina Colada. Of course, a number of Rhum Clement offerings are on the bill, even the XO — all except Creole Shrubb. But with so many choices, it didn’t take long to find another to my liking.

Chef Colin Hazama’s tapas are spectacular as well, ranging from tasty lilikoi hoisin braised baby back ribs with mango chutney to ahi poke tacos served with Asian guacamole, tobiko sour cream and lomi tomato, from an invigorating Hawaiian-styled pho to a selection of cheese accompanied by Hawaiian honeycomb and exquisite preserves.

The indoor space is as inviting as the newly opened outdoor deck that overlooks the new pool complex serving both Sheraton and the renowned Royal Hawaiian Hotel, now undergoing extensive renovation. This includes two freshwater swimming pools, a 15-foot high by 70-foot long water slide and two large whirlpools with sweeping views of Waikiki Beach and Diamond Head. The fire pits and oversized poolside lounges are well placed for alfresco gatherings, including the diversity gathering scheduled by Inductivo the last Sunday of every month.

RumFire certainly lived up to the advance billing given by Fairchild. After a couple of visits, I can see why this is becoming Waikiki’s newest hot spot.

‘Broke da mouth’

In the language of Hawaii, “ono” is the term used to describe something one considers tasty or delicious. Many use the term, “broke da mouth,” to describe a really tasty dish.

To be sure, there’s a lot of first-rate eateries on Oahu today dishing up “ono” food.

Surely, the best of the bunch is Chef Mavro, France-born chef George Mavrothalassitis’ temple of food and wine located just outside the hubbub of Waikiki.

Recently honored with a Five Diamond Award by the American Automobile Association and named one of the top restaurants in the world by Gayot, Chef Mavro celebrated its 10th anniversary last month.

Sommeliers and cooks gather often to sample wines to be paired with the distinctly regional cuisine and democratically decide which wine will be offered with each and every dish, which always remains an option for diners.

During Christmas week a friend from Salt Lake City and I popped in to sample Chef Mavro’s holiday menu. And we weren’t the only ones in the busy dining room that evening. Guests included Wine Spectator publisher Marvin Shanken and his family, also vacationing on Oahu.

One of the most creative dishes from the culinary team featured grilled Hamakua mushrooms served atop toothsome macaroni gratin, along with Parmesan chips, Jerusalem artichokes, cauliflower puree, watercress and a perky pancetta vinaigrette. A racy, fruity pinot gris from Alsace’s Lucien Albrecht played off the complex flavors and textures of the exceptional first course.

Likewise, a crisp fillet of flounder with tamarind curry went hand-in-glove with a riesling from the Rheingau’s Schloss Vollrads. Tender lamb loin with a Moroccan tagine chockful of vegetables and dates was enhanced by the bright cherry notes of a spicy zinfandel from Dry Creek Valley’s Dashe Cellars.

The piece de resistance this night was pastry chef Hiromi Okura’s lilikoi malasadas, the passion fruit-infused Portuguese doughnuts napped with guava coulis and served with a big scoop of pineapple-coconut ice cream. A glass of Blandy’s Malmsey Madeira was almost overkill. Yeah – broke da mouth!

Had we opted for the six-course menu, we would have tucked into Wagyu beef short ribs paired with Bouncristiani Napa Valley claret.

I don’t know who’s repping the Buoncristiani brand in Hawaii but he or she is doing a great job. A couple of nights later, I joined friends at an intimate neighborhood restaurant in Kaimuki, 12th Avenue Grill, and there were a pair of Buoncristiani wines on the by-the-glass list.

The 12th Avenue Grill is another great destination for wine and food. This is a spot for outstanding comfort food, like baked macaroni and cheese, Kona Brewery Porter Beer braised short ribs with cheddar mashed potatoes, grilled Big Island ribeye with Hamakua woodear mushrooms and chocolate chip bread pudding with cinnamon crème anglaise.

Last but not least is a terrific Cuban eatery (Hawaii’s first and only Cuban restaurant), Soul de Cuba Cafe, located in downtown Honolulu (a short bus ride from Waikiki) across from the restored Hawaii Theater.

Founded by Jesus Puerto (who first opened a Cuban eatery of the same name in Connecticut where it remains one of New Haven’s most popular dining spots), Soul de Cuba is an intimate 40-seat restaurant that offers outstanding Cuban sandwiches at lunch and a wide variety of Cuban dishes at dinner.

Have general manager Michael Iamele whip up a mojito for you, then tuck into an intense sopa de frijoles negro (lipsmacking black bean soup), lechon assada (roast pork marinated in a citrus-based mojo) served with black beans and rice and fried plantains, or even a hearty oxtail stew. The restaurant’s mojo (which is now available for purchase to use at home) is also integral to the preparations of other dishes, such as salmon and chicken.

Here, too, in downtown Honolulu you will find an outstanding lineup of Caribbean rums, along with outstanding Cuban music and a passing parade of local celebs and Spanish-speaking islanders who know where to go for “broke da mouth” food.

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