A Californian, writing recently to Decanter Magazine in London, took some of the magazine’s contributors to task for what he saw as disparaging remarks about American wines.

The controversy is about as basic as anything I can think of and comes down to the old Latin phrase “De gustibus non est disputandum.” Or roughly, regarding the matter of taste, there is no dispute. You like one thing, I like another, and each of us is right — for ourselves.

The letter writer pointed to comments from some of the U.K. magazine’s authors who, he said, denigrate U.S. wines. And he noted, “Perhaps this has to do with the fact that Americans prefer to drink their wine separately from food?”

 The fact that he ended the sentence with a question mark makes me think he’s not sure if that’s the way Americans typically consume wine. But I guess he suspects it is.

And that may be a clue to why Decanter, “the world’s greatest wine magazine,” in the words of it’s own cover slogan, gives glowing reviews to many European wines that are a bit more delicate, crisp/tart, or reflective of the soil/origin.

It also gives reviews, the letter writer implied, that portray California wines as different from European wines and not as well appreciated by British palates.

 Moreover, his comment about the wine-food connection claiming a lesser role in the United States than it does in Europe is telling — mainly because it appears to be true.

I often hear of U.S. wine tastings in which not a speck of victuals is anywhere near the vinous venue. The best wines are often said to be “hedonistic,” and rare is the comment about what sort of food would be best with the winners.

 Quite the opposite is the case with many European wines. Food and wine are inseparable, for the most part, on the continent.

But a key point here is that in many areas of Europe, the wines reflect the soil because the grapes grow in a continental climate that has a lot less sunlight hours during the growing season than does the U.S. West Coast’s generally Mediterranean clime. Lots of sun translates in ultra-ripe grapes, which usually carries less of the soil’s message.

So in some ways it’s Mother Nature that allows Europe to make a “European style” of wine, a more delicate, food-oriented style. And it’s also Mother Nature that permits California to make a more opulent style that some people prefer to drink as they would cola.

Because the contributors to Decanter are largely locally grown experts with roots in European wines, they have developed a palate for that style of wine and are best equipped to critique it.

 As the late Louis M. Martini once said, “We like best that to which we have become accustomed.”

Either the letter writer should become more accustomed to European wines, or simply stick to his California favorites.

Or stop reading Decanter.

Wine of the Week: 2007 Silverado Chardonnay. Napa County ($23) — Here is a stylish, handsomely floral white wine that was intended to go with seafood. With a citrus/grapefruit aroma, faint nuances of oak, and excellent acidity, it splits makes a European statement with excellent California fruit.

Dan Berger resides in Sonoma County. Berger publishes a weekly newsletter on wine and can be reached at danberger@VintageExperiences.com.