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No bull: Pamplona is cultural and culinary center of Basque Country

PAMPLONA, Spain — While Pamplona has achieved international notoriety thanks to Ernest Hemingway’s fascination with and descriptions of the thrilling Running of the Bulls in his novels, this otherwise tranquil city is without a doubt, much more than the edge-of-your-seat, bull-dashing frenzy that often seems to define it.

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