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The globalization of wine
Tuesday, November 18, 2008
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 There is a lot of talk these days about the globalization of wine. Some wine people are up all night tossing and turning, worried about that sometime in the distant future, all wines will taste alike, assuming there could ever be such a thing as a “universal” taste.

Globalization of wine sets me off in another direction — the amazing growth of international commerce in wine in this generation. Not that international wine trade is something new. The Greeks, as in many things, did a wonderful job 2,000 years ago planting vines and spreading wine culture. The Greek trade in wine was surprisingly extensive. There was a system of appellations to ensure the origin of the best wines so that customers of Greek wines knew where the wine came from. Large stores of wine traveled wherever Greek ships traveled — and that was all over the known world. We even know from ancient records where the best wines came from. So, the Greeks developed the kind of Epicurean consciousness that is now also part of the modern wine mind.
I’ve always believed that this globalization, or internationalization of wine has caused great competition, which is always good for the development of wine and our wine industry. 

Let’s take as a starting point, the famous Paris tasting of 1978. What this well- publicized event demonstrated was not just that California wines topped French ones on one particular day in time. The large far-reaching picture was that given the right soil and climate, fine winemaking and good technical skills, France was not the only country that could make great wines.  This message inspired winemaking in many countries.
One notable example — the wines of Italy. Not so long ago, most United States wine consumers thought of Italian wines as the rather rough, thin inexpensive wines in straw flasks with the Chianti on the label. Now, what has happened in Italy has been phenomenal and not just in Tuscany. Today, a top level wine merchant will have well over 200 Italian red wines ranging from excellent Falesco wines under $10 to a line of highly regarded wines from Gaja, some of which command prices close to $300 a bottle.

Today, fine Italian wines are not restricted to the Northern districts. Excellent wines are being enjoyed from Sicily to Puglia, Campania and points south. Italian grape varietals that in the past “got no respect” are now flourishing stars under new and expert hands — Nero d’Avola and Sagrantino are just two examples
Two more recent examples from South America are worth noting. The United Kingdom is a great wine consumer and therefore is a good barometer when it comes to imports. In order to climb aboard the wine train, Chile and Argentina had to do a quality turn-around, which has been accomplished and continues to grow. Just a few years ago, you would be hard pressed to find any selection of wines from these countries,   Now, 40 or more wines would be the norm with fine wines at really good values.

The Australian wine industry has had a similar renaissance. In the past, the few Australian wines to hit our market were, for the most part, inexpensive. Today, wineries such as d’Arenberg, Clarendon Hills, Pennfolds, Elderton Ashmead and Henshke are producing world class red wines that the world is now enjoying.

Lastly, Spain. As the international wine expert Robert Whitley recently wrote, “From Priorat to the Penedes to Rijoa to the Ribera del Duero to Toro to the Rias Baixas, a renaissance in wine production is sweeping Spain. On a recent trip to Madrid, I tasted several wines I had never heard of made from grapes I had never heard of from regions I had never heard of.”   

Where will this all end? I am not sure, as a wine lover it may be a bit confusing at first, but it sure is deliciously interesting! Now, I may enjoy a great late harvest wine from — Canada. Oh, yes!
3 comment(s)

Carl/NYC wrote on Nov 19, 2008 6:13 AM:

" Sir,

Not only wine, but the entire ethno/political structure of our world is globalizing. Sticking to wine here, I am amazed at how many who are involved in the wine trade don't realize that globalization is not as simple "Oh! There's more good wine now!" Globalization is putting the historically great wine producing areas of the world under great financial stress.

Globalization is really a two part attack. Part one is the fact that wine is coming to the market from areas of the world that never produced wine for export before and for every bottle of "new wine" consumed, that's one less bottle of traditionally highly regarded wine that will be purchased. Part two is the globalization of palates. As Americans and others begin to become involved with wine appreciation, they are more likely to be introduced to the fruit forward, big, easily accessible wines that such countries and areas as Australia, New Zealand, Chile, Oregon, South Africa, etc. produce and as this kind of wine sets the standard for what "good wine" should be, traditional, old world style wines are not something consumers bother to learn to appreciate.

In response to this, old world producers have begun to make wines in imitation of "New World" wines. Is this because producers in Bordeaux, for example, feel they've learned something about making good wine from others? No. It's because these producers own businesses and businesses need to sell their products or go bust (unless they are GM or Chrysler, of course).

What I'm saying here is that while it's nice to have this huge array of similar wines coming at us from all over the world these days, we shouldn't forget what we're giving up to enjoy them. "

Blaise wrote on Nov 19, 2008 2:00 PM:

" Actually, the movement is from global to microtaste.
Climate, tech, soil and vines make the wine. Marketing makes the product and brings it to a Safeway near you.
Gallo has moved from a global brand to searching the globe for wine.
We are no longer mondovino drinkers but we are looking around the world for interesting wines at a good price.
How the wine world deals with the economics and sustainability (should we be drinking Beaujolais Nouveau wine flown in to California for what is essentially a 24-hour event?) remains to be seen.
Steven Spurrier's tasting was in 1976. "

Carl/NYC wrote on Nov 20, 2008 2:46 PM:

" Blaine,

We live in a world and at a time in which most wine drinkers aren't sure the word "Terroire" has meaning. "Microtaste"? Are you kidding? What does that word even mean?

Taste an Argentine Malbec from 20 years ago and then taste one from today and tell me that today's wine has not become globalized. To be less than polite, tell me that today's Malbecs are not being made for A) American "cuisine", "as it were" and B) in a globalized style.

So, were the Malbecs "of old" simple "bad"? Maybe "harsh"? No! They were made for the cuisine, which was basically grilled meats and innards and for the most part, nothing else!

You know: Maybe you need to have been ther. "

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