Wearing his trademark beret, Mike Grgich surveyed the sold-out, wait-listed party at Grgich Hills Estate winery last Saturday and said, “I cannot describe how happy I am tonight. It is a gratitude that comes not one fold but many fold.”

Both mainstream media and the blogosphere got a juicy treat this month when an East Coast food and wine critic revealed he had successfully hoaxed Wine Spectator magazine into granting an “award of excellence” for the wine list at an imaginary restaurant.

“Bottle Shock,” a movie about a cockeyed optimist from the sticks who single-handedly beat the goliaths, begins by declaring, “This is based on a true story.” And with that those wonderful Hollywood writers (and producers who live in Sonoma) proceed to rob us blind.

I received a letter from my Francophile Uncle Morty ( C. Morton Rothschild, you remember) who took me to task for my recent column on Champagne. In it, I opined that French Champagne and fine California sparkling wines have very little differences in actual taste. His letter was hand-written on engraved stationery with his family crest engraved in three colors. His tone was decidedly edgy.

The activities at many wineries at this time of year, including Beaulieu Vineyards, are those of getting ready for the harvest, receiving new barrels, and “cleaning, cleaning and more cleaning.” Although some sauvignon blanc has been harvested, nearly all of the grapes are still on the vine.

The Chicago Sun-Times did a courageous thing last week: It suggested in an editorial that the legal drinking age be lowered from 21 to 19.