Eight “next generation” winemakers invited a like number of young chefs to put their best lamb dishes to the test as the Carneros Wine Alliance hosted its third annual Carneros Heritage Fest in the renowned winegrowing appellation at the end of May.

Billed as a weekend exploring “wines, vines, woolies and wetlands,” the festival featured a second annual young chef competition, pitting three chefs from Sonoma and one from Marin  against four of Napa Valley’s first-rate cooks.

The eight chefs were asked to pass muster before a panel of judges, as well as serve their dish of the day to hundreds who came to the festival. And those favorite recipes had as the main ingredient lamb provided by the American Lamb Board.

Champ from last year’s competition, Preston Dishman, executive chef of The General’s Daughter in Sonoma, was back to defend his title, serving up lamb chorizo with slow-cooked lentils, given added zip by some cilantro and crème fraîche.

His Sonoma County counterparts included Bryan Jones, from Glen Ellen’s Fig Cafe, and Janine Falvo, representing The Lodge at Sonoma’s Bistro Carneros. Their contributions to the lamb cookoff were Lamb Three Ways (Lamb Meatballs, Lamb Tajine with Fava Beans and Harissa-topped Loin) and Lamb Sphere (Cypress Grove Truffle Chevre-stuffed Lamb wrapped in Swiss Chard), respectively.

Wayne Pratt, who mans the stoves at Point Reyes Station House Cafe, served up Roasted Fennel Pollen-rubbed Leg of Lamb with Red Wine and Bone Marrow Sauce.

The local contingent, along with their dishes, included Dominic Orsini, who serves as executive chef at a pair of Calistoga eateries, Bar Vino and Brannan’s, Honey Tamarind Glazed Lamb Brochettes; Matt Mermod, chef/partner, Bleaux Magnolia, Grilled Lamb Meatloaf Po’ Boy with Pomegranate BBQ Sauce, Melted Provolone and Deep-Fried Corn Meal Dusted Pickles; Summer Sebastiani, one of the creative chefs at Calistoga’s All Seasons Bistro, a Greek-styled Spiced Leg of Lamb with Red Wine Honey Glaze, Cracked Wheat Salad and Red Wine and Honey Yogurt Sauce; and Regusci Winery chef Graham Jones, Lamb Cevapcici with Mint Tzatziki and Napa Cabbage Salad.

Judges included Gillian Ballance, wine director of the PlumpJack Group (including Farm at Carneros Inn); Anne Moller-Racke, from Donum Estate where the festival was held; Steve Sando, owner of Rancho Gordo Heritage Beans; Jeff Jake, executive chef, the Carneros Inn; Jeff Stewart, Buena Vista winemaker; and this writer.

We were impressed from the get-go with the creativity of the dishes. First up was the Balkan grilled minced lamb dish (that we later learned had been prepared by one of the Jones boys). Cevapcici is found throughout former Yugoslavia, and in just about every region there’s a regional variation. Jones’ cevapcici may have come closest to the quite agreeable, slightly spicy version found along the Dalmatian coast. These sausages proved addictive and I, for one, hope he prepares them the next time the Regusci wine family hosts an open house or public wine reception. I’m there!

The judges liked the two Greek-accented offerings, both, by the way, from Calistoga chefs.  Bar Vino’s Orsini served his honey tamarind glazed lamb brochettes on rosemary skewers with fresh garbanzo and feta flecked pearl couscous with a mint coulis. Sebastiani’s lamb dish offered a delightful marriage of flavors, with honey, red wine and yogurt complementing the natural lamb flavors.

And while there was not unanimity about the added ingredients in Mermod’s dish, everyone agreed that the meatloaf on its own was terrific. I know that the majority hopes the savory lamb meatloaf will show up on the menu at Bleaux Magnolia some time soon.

The winners

Impressed with the great flavor combinations found in the lamb chorizo dish, judges awarded first prize once again to last year’s winner, Preston Dishman.

Runner-up was Bar Vino’s Dominic Orsini. Both chefs have provided Register readers with their winning recipes.

And the American Lamb Board has provided its recipe for All-American Grilled Butterflied Leg of American Lamb.

“Don’t rush a large leg roast by cooking it a a constant high temperature — it can cook unevenly — underdone in the center and overdone just below the surface,” says Board spokesman Tim Love, known as the Cowboy Chef.

“It is best to sear the roast first, followed by low, slow roasting. Start the meat in a hot (450-500 degrees), oven for 15-20 minutes until a crust forms that will seal in the juices. Reduce the oven heat to about 300 degrees to complete the cooking. For medium rare, roast approximately 20 minutes per pound at 300 degrees for a bone-in roast and 25 minutes per pound for a boneless roast. Use a meat thermometer to determine doneness.

“Remove from the oven and let rest for 20 minutes before carving. A cooling period will allow the meat’s juices to settle and make carving easier. Carve the meat against the grain so the meat will be tender. Cut thick slices — a naturally tender cut like leg should be sliced about 1/2-inch thick.”