The original idea for the Napa Valley Wine Auction began with a concept to raise money for local charities.

But the idea was spawned by Sonoma County wineries for charities in their own county, and adopted weeks later as a pretty sound idea for the better-known wine region over the hill. A second, and the most important reason, for the event was promotion of each region as wine country.

Sonoma went ahead with its plans that first year, 1981, and still does a lot of charitable auctions, raising funds for worthwhile charitable institutions. And the promotional aspects have paid off.

But oh my, what Napa has done with its little do! In fact, this major happening has been so successful that promotion is now only a minor aspect of its raison d’etre. It is clearly the social event of the year.

The 28th incarnation of Auction Napa Valley, coming up June 5-8, is one of the hottest wine-lover tickets in the nation, despite some gaudy pricing to get in.

However, over the years the event has donated $78 million to a bevy of local charities, which in the last few years has expanded significantly. Last year alone, $9.8 million was raised by ticket and wine sales.

When the event was a decade old, however, critics began to see flaws in the system. The early charities were mainly hospitals, some of which were fiscally healthy, said critics, who added that other local charities were being ignored.

Moreover, there was some local sniping about how much money was being spent on promotion of the event at Meadowood Country Club; critics asked why more couldn’t be spent on the charities, and why the number of charities couldn’t be expanded.

Over time, auction organizers heard the pleas and fixed things. Today, a total of 20 health-care agencies, 17 youth agencies, six local housing-assistance groups, and four special services groups benefit from what surely will be a lot of money raised for them ñ more than $10 million in total revenues, organizers hope.

It starts with ticket sales. A “classic package” for two people, which includes a bidder’s paddle and tickets to all events, is $5,000. Some single-event tickets are also available.

Then there are the auction lots, which some might call a tad on the ostentatious side. And the bidding for them defies description.

Included are such things as trips to New Zealand and the Academy Awards. One lot has a British-made 1956 Austin Healey 100-4 that has been fully restored. And then there are lots like the one donated by the Napa Valley Vintners and Departures magazine: 50 bottles of Napa Valley wine; a tour of Girard-Perregaux, including the museum and manufacturer; a $15,000 “allowance” for Girard-Perregaux watches; dinner for two with the head of the company; business class airfare for two to Geneva; hotel accommodations for two people for four nights; a $15,000 allowance for Ermenegildo Zegna men’s clothing, and a $25,000 AGNONA cashmere and orylag blanket.

Needless to say, this lot could well be hotly contested.

The auction began humbly enough. The first bottle sold was an old bottle of Beringer cabernet. Marvin Shanken, publisher of The Wine Spectator, bought that wine for $300. I suspect that was the last bargain had at the auction.

In the latter 1980s, an era began that some cynics call the Furniture Phase; large, gaudy, artisan-crafted cabinetry became part of many lots. As the cabinets grew more and more ornate and expensive, they threatened to take the focus off the wine.

Furniture was then formally discouraged and soon even size requirements were imposed. As wood declined, trips to places like Tahiti and Paris took their place. But the jet set era also was seen as anti-wine, and soon the number of getaways dropped.

What hasn’t declined are lunches and dinners with wineries, often for 10 or 20 people. As this world-famed region grew in numbers of producers, so did those wanting in, to strut their stuff for bidders.

Today, a silent auction has been replaced by an electronic one that’s open to anyone. Log on to http://www.napavintners.com and the E-Auction lots may be seen.

In addition to the auction, the days leading up to it as well as the Sunday following give local wineries a chance to host smaller parties. There also is a major Taste Napa Valley tasting on Friday.

If that’s not enough, the opening “act” for this extravaganza is Tonight Show host Jay Leno, who wowed the crowd last year. Still one of the most entertaining evenings in the history of the event was the performance of Joel Grey nearly three decades ago.

Yes, it’s pricey, but it does great work for the community, it showcases Napa like no other event can and the fun is infectious.

Wine of the Week: 2007 St. Supery Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley ($22) — A dramatic varietal aroma of melon, tarragon and fresh citrus leads to a mouth-watering slightly soft wine that works brilliantly with poached seafood. Always a great white wine.

Dan Berger resides in Sonoma County. Berger publishes a weekly newsletter on wine and can be reached at danberger@VintageExperiences.com.