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Remembering Mr. Mondavi
Friday, May 23, 2008
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I’m a relative newcomer to Napa Valley, having arrived here in 1996. But for many years before that I had known about Robert Mondavi, had read about him, consumed his wine and had visited the winery several times during trips to Napa Valley.

So, when a beverage trade magazine that I was writing for asked me to cover the groundbreaking for what was to become Copia, I thought I might finally have a chance to see, and maybe even meet, the legendary Mr. Mondavi. I arrived at the site a bit early, and, not knowing a soul, wandered around the area.
I glanced up, and walking briskly toward me was this man with a big grin on his face. It took a couple seconds to realize that it was Mr. Mondavi. He walked right up to me, held out his hand and — I remember it vividly — said, “Hi, I’m Bob Mondavi. Welcome to the American Center for Wine, Food and the Arts.” (The name had not yet been changed to Copia.) When I identified myself and the publication I was representing, he said, “Let me know if there’s anything you need.” Then, in typical Robert Mondavi fashion, he bounded off to greet someone else.

I was in awe. I had met THE man. It made my day.
(I refer to him as Mr. Mondavi because I feel someone of his stature should be addressed with respect. I could never bring myself to call him Bob or even Robert. It was Mr. Mondavi.)

A year or so later, I was invited to a meeting of the California board of directors of Alcohol in Moderation at Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars. About 25 or 30 people filled the cave, and as I looked around the crowd, I saw Robert Mondavi, Mike Grgich and Warren Winiarski. “Wow,” I thought. “Here are the three people who put California on the world wine map, and here I am in the same room with them.” It certainly wasn’t the first time the three were together, but for a guy still trying to find his way in the wine industry, it was an exciting moment, especially because I shook hands with them.
After I started writing for the Napa Valley Register, I was assigned to cover the blessing of the grapes at the Mondavi winery. Following the ceremony, guests were invited to a luncheon. I decided to sit near the rear, intending to leave early to get back and write my story, so I sat down at the table farthest back.

The Mondavi public relations lady came up to me and said, “Jack, Mr. Mondavi would like to have you sit at his table.” I joined Mr. Mondavi, Margrit and some others for a most delightful lunch, and during the afternoon he asked me about myself — where I was from, what I did before coming to Napa, and even about my family. I was amazed that he even knew who I was.

In the center of the table was a cookbook written by Margrit and her daughter Annie Roberts. An announcement was made that whoever had a sticker or something under the saucer could have the book. I was the lucky one. As someone started to hand it to me, Mr. Mondavi said to Margrit, “Why don’t you sign it for him.” She did, inscribing it to my wife, Heddy.

All of those are great memories, but the one that stands out most in my mind was one that I witnessed at the 2005 Auction Napa Valley. The two Mondavi families – Robert’s and Peter’s – joined to create a barrel of wine blended from the two estates for the auction, and the brothers sat together on a stage-like setting in front of the barrel, greeting passersby and posing for photos.

After they left, I stood in the aisle as Tim Mondavi pushed his father in his wheelchair, and Mr. Mondavi acknowledged me with a slight smile. As I watched them move along the aisle, I noted another wheelchair coming from the other direction. It was Al Brounstein, being pushed by his wife Boots.

The two wheelchairs met and the two men conversed for a few moments. What a scene. Two icons of the wine industry — each a pioneer in a different way — in their waning years, still a major part of the industry.

And there wasn’t a single photographer around to record the moment.

But it’s recorded vividly in my mind, and although I had seen Mr. Mondavi a few times after that at various events, that’s the image that will last with me forever.

Jack Heeger can be reached at jheeger@pacbell.net.
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