from Cindy Pawlcyn

I often find the ají pastes and ajís themselves at area Mexican markets, such as Napa’s La Morenita. And Dean & DeLuca is carrying some of these items. Also, Whole Foods and other markets in the Bay Area carry ají amarillo puree in a jar, which I found is acceptable in these dishes.

Tamal Criollo

4 pounds maíz mote (large kernels of dried corn, or canned hominy)

6 Tbsp. vegetable oil

4 Tbsp. lard

3 Tbsp. ají mirasol paste

1 Tbsp. ají panca paste

3 Tbsp. crushed garlic

1 Tbsp. cumin seed

6-8 banana leaves

Salt and pepper, to taste

For the stuffing:

1 ají amarillo (yellow hot Peruvian pepper), seeded, deveined and cut into 3-by-1/2-inch pieces

8 olives

2 hard-boiled eggs

1/4 cup peanuts, lightly roasted

Soak the corn overnight (or use canned hominy). Bring to a boil in plenty of water, remove from the heat, strain and add more cold water. Repeat procedure. Rinse well and set aside to cool.

When cool enough to handle, slip off hulls and grind in a food processor, adding enough water to form a dough or masa. Mix in 4 tablespoons of the oil and the lard. Let the mixture cool thoroughly.

In a small skillet, heat the remaining oil and, over medium heat sauté garlic, ají pastes, cumin seed, salt and pepper for 4 minutes.

Add the cooked seasonings to the masa and mix thoroughly. Set aside to cool.

Place about 3/4 cup of masa in the center of each banana leaf. Top each with a slice of fresh hot ají pepper, a couple of olives, a wedge of hard-boiled egg and several roasted peanuts, and fold the leaf into a packet.

Steam the tamals in a steaming basket over boiling water (more than a simmer but less than full boil) for 40 minutes. Keep warm.

Note: If you cannot find Peruvian maíz mote, a mixture of fresh corn (kernels from two ears of corn), masa flour (1-1/2 cups) and 1/2 tsp. baking powder will give excellent results also.

Braised Duck Leg

6 duck legs

2 Tbsp. olive oil

2 tsp. fresh ground black pepper

2 tsp. toasted fresh ground cumin

1 tsp. paprika

1/4 tsp. cayenne pepper

2 tsp. minced garlic

1 cup mirepoix — equal amounts of celery, carrot and onion, peeled and diced

Bouquet garni (1 bay leaf, 3-4 sprigs of parsley, 3-4 sprigs of thyme)

4 cups white wine

8 cups duck or chicken stock

2 Tbsp. orange zest and juice of 2 oranges

Sea salt

Season duck legs with salt, pepper, cumin, cayenne, paprika, rub in the garlic, and sprinkle the orange zest about. Let rest 15-20 minutes. Add wine and orange juice and marinate over night.

Remove duck from marinade, strain and reserve. Heat oil, brown duck slowly until caramelized and nicely browned. Remove from the pan, pour off excess fat but leave enough to brown mirepoix. Brown mirepoix, then add reserved marinade and bouquet garni. Bring to a boil and let reduce down by two-thirds. Add the duck legs and enough stock to cover them and bring to a simmer. Simmer until meat is tender. Remove the duck legs and reduce the braising juices, strain and use as the sauce. Reheat the duck over medium-high heat in a clean sauté pan with a litle oil, to crisp the skin.

To serve, place duck leg on opened tamal and drizzle 2-3 tablespoons of the sauce (reduced braising liquid) over all.