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Conaway: Napa at mercy of 'vineyard elite'
Author James Conaway, who has written two books about Napa Valley’s evolution as America’s wine capital, was one of the keynote speakers at a California Preservation Conference program held at the Napa Valley Opera House. J.L. Sousa/Register | Buy photos
Author of controversial books speaks at preservation conference
Friday, April 25, 2008
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James Conaway, the bad boy author whose two Napa Valley books have laid bare local political wars and the vanities of wealthy wine industry newcomers, is back.

The author of “Napa: The Story of an American Eden” and “The Far Side of Eden” returned Thursday morning to address a California Preservation Foundation conference at the Napa Valley Opera House.
Repeating criticisms found in his books, Conaway said the undoing of the Napa Valley may be the sprawl of boutique wineries by rich newcomers who would sacrifice our natural and architectural heritage in the name of “showing off.”

Because of its international reputation, the Napa Valley is attracting a swarm of millionaires who build “baronial” estates and gut the integrity of neighborhoods by buying second homes, Conaway said.
He cited the architecture of Dominus Estate — a winery covered with stone-filled gabion enclosures — as an example of “totalitarian” design, an “unapproachable” building that serves the “vineyard elite” that now rule the Napa Valley.

In the same vein, Conaway disparaged the Frank Gehry-design for what will be Hall Winery in St. Helena, a clear case of a building dictated by “fashion, not function.”
Tourists play into this trend, Conaway said. “They’re attracted by the spectacular.” Be wary of catering to tourists, he said. “Tourism can devour the thing it loves.”

Conaway, who is an editor at large for Preservation magazine, said George Yount, the valley’s first white settler, would hardly recognize the place today.

The Napa of his day was marked by abundant wildlife, clear-running streams and dense forests on the western hills, Conaway said. If conference attendees were to venture into the hills today, they would find forest “scrapped raw” by vineyard development, he said.

Conaway praised the wine industry as the essential underpinning for the Napa Valley’s quality of life. “Agriculture is the source of all good things here, although it’s easy to forget sometimes,” he said.

Perversely, the very success of the Napa Valley wine industry — wine grapes are “one of the most valuable legal crops in the country” — has created the conditions that threaten it, he said.

The valley is attracting the mega-wealthy who want a piece of the action, he said. Vineyards have been planted on questionable terrain. The homes of the rich are infected by “gigantism.”

Corporations, which now own 20 percent of the valley’s tillable land, are another threat, Conaway said. In a wine industry downturn, corporate owners might be tempted to spend big bucks to repeal the Agricultural Preserve, allowing vineyards to be replaced by houses, he said.

Conaway lamented what he sees as the prevailing ethics of the times. Americans value growth and land use entitlements more than preserving our country’s architectural heritage and landscapes, he said.

“No piece of the nation goes unassigned to market forces,” Conaway said.

Conaway’s next book, set for release later this year, is “Vanishing America: In Pursuit of Our Elusive Landscapes.”

For those who want Conaway’s take on Napa Valley happenings since “The Far Side of Eden” came out in 2002, stay tuned. He’s working on the third volume of his Napa trilogy.
16 comment(s)

hudds5 wrote on Apr 25, 2008 6:35 AM:

" He wrote a book about something we Napan have known for decades? Only someone who is new to Napa would be willing to buy his books. For many of us growing up in Napa...this is no surprise! "

pbfallon wrote on Apr 25, 2008 9:12 AM:

" So why do people leave when they retire? DUH!! "

JimClark wrote on Apr 25, 2008 10:01 AM:

" I may vote Yes on Measure N only to hopefully maintain the restrictions on growth in the county I grew up in.

I continue to believe that this issue has become too political and needs more time to set some real principles and policies that will further reduce the amount of housing tracts and hotels that seem to be proliferating throughout Napa County.

I continue to believe the County and City governments are extremely delusional in what they seem to believe to be necessary. When I drive past the Wine Train station, I see this hotel and “resort” under construction next to the Napa River. When I drive down Soscol and see the mud flats at low tide, I have to wonder. There is some question as how many of those rooms will be occupied and what kind of revenue they will pay to the County/City of Napa. The larger question is will those revenues reduce the tax encumbrances on local taxpayers? Or, will local government perform as the bozos in Sacramento? Reduce the deficit by increasing taxes and spending that money on some other project?

I grew up in Napa and I have seen it become Mondaviland; a theme park for wannabe snobs and moneyed elitists. Our hillsides are blemished with the “homes” these elitists have paid off or twisted government arms to be capable of constructing the devastation of our real Napa Valley.
Voting yes may maintain the status quo but we all need to try to maintain what is left of our rural atmosphere. "

Sickothis wrote on Apr 25, 2008 10:03 AM:

" I'm surprised he attacks Dominus. That is one of the few wineries I admire - you don't even notice it half the time driving Upvalley. There are plenty of other places that are obscene. "

southnapareader wrote on Apr 25, 2008 10:56 AM:

" I wonder how people would react if the Town/County Fair had a theme one year called, "The Vineyard Elite"? Nevermind, that's probably too obvious... "

napablogger wrote on Apr 25, 2008 12:02 PM:

" You have to bear in mind that Conaway is a left wing environmentalist. He wrote an article in Preservationist magazine about how Chris Malan was the one who was really right about the environment in Napa. I don't agree with that at all. On the one hand he is saying the wine industry is what makes Napa have a high quality of life, then disparages the wealthy people here who make it so. You can't have it both ways. If you are going to plant a vineyard you have to cut down trees. Are the thousands of people who move into neighborhoods more of a problem or are the wealthy who build one house, albeit a big one, on 160 acres of land? He's concerned about too much development, but how do you stop it all? You can't. I would rather have wealthy people on 160 acres than tract neighborhoods. "

since1976 wrote on Apr 25, 2008 12:21 PM:

" I miss old Napa so much. My mom tried to sell the line to me that the wine/tour industry helps the Napa residents by helping our economy.
Sorry mom, you could afford to buy a house here thirty years ago and now I can't. I wouldn't call that financial security for the locals. "

vocal-de-local wrote on Apr 25, 2008 1:29 PM:

" Wow NB, I do agree with you on that one. We shouldn't be complaining about people with one home on 160 acres. So what if they're wealthy. The land is still being preserved as open space. This is more environmentally sound than 20 homes per acre. Grapes absorb heat and produce photosynthesis whereas asphalt reflects heat back into the atmosphere. As much as I resent old money corporations which pour their resources into paving Napa, I appreciate how the wealthy have also helped to preserve the Upvalley. NB, your point is well taken. "

napablogger wrote on Apr 25, 2008 4:06 PM:

" thanks Vocal, I am sure there are some arrogant wealthy people, in fact I have met some of them. But there are some arrogant non wealthy people too. My BS meter goes off when someone like Conaway starts trying to make government policy based on his interpretation of a whole group of people's personalities like that. What he is doing is arrogant, actually.

Boy this comment box isn't working right. No scroll bar, bleeding off to the left side. Anyone else having that problem? "

Bill wrote on Apr 25, 2008 4:58 PM:

" Ah yes, so much for the vision of America as yeoman farmers and mechanics that died a century ago.

Instead a nation or county of gentleman vinyardists tending their vines with the teaming masses of field hands fending off left wing environmentalists in the tradition of Tidewater aristocrats.

It appears that in the Napa Valley all geese are also swans. perhaps we haven't come that far.

Not forty acres and a mule but 160 and a minor Barony.

Now I may have to read this author. "

cordell wrote on Apr 25, 2008 6:06 PM:

" George Yount wouldn't recognize our Valley today? Couldn't that statement be made about anywhere in the world or is Napa supposed to be the only place where time stands still? Please people, don't buy this guy's books. What an idiot. "

Unclestuy wrote on Apr 25, 2008 6:52 PM:

" You got it. Hudds5, this is no suprise. Simply drive up any mountain road with vineyards on it on a real wet rainy day. Down comes the mud. Napa has always been the for the vineyard elitist. This guy say's it with more class, that I. Old money goes around town. "

napablogger wrote on Apr 25, 2008 7:30 PM:

" Bill, Cordell, despite my not agreeing with his point of view his books are a hoot. I would highly recommend them, I read them both and look forward to his new one.

160 acres and a Barony, I like that. "

napaninsf wrote on Apr 25, 2008 9:33 PM:

" As a native Napan who has lived on the outside for 26 years I have a little advise on how to help make Napa more enjoyable...if anyone asks for a pleasent wine country escape, SEND THEM TO SONOMA! It is an honest statement and so facinating to see the looks on peoples faces when they realize you know what you're talking about. "

109823 wrote on Apr 25, 2008 10:26 PM:

" To Southnapareader, if the theme "The Vineyard Elite" was in Spanish you'd probably have a winner. Don't give up on it just yet. Maybe call Joe Anderson (or whatever his name is) at the fair board. "

johnmo wrote on Apr 28, 2008 8:29 AM:

" THE REZONING OF NAPA COUNTY - Is James Conaway’s conjecture a myth or could it become a reality? Who now exercises the most influence on the activities of the largest economic resource of Napa County? Is it wineries owned by resident winegrowers or outsiders? Here is what a meeting of the original Napa Vintners Association membership (formed in mid 1940s) would look like with today's owners occupying the seats of the original founders:

E. & J. Gallo, Central Valley of California, replaces Louis M. Martini’s seat. Gallo: the largest wine producer in the USA says Wine Business Monthly 2006 ranking based on U.S. produced case sales. Gallo recently purchased William Hill.

Francis Ford Coppola, the Hollywood movie mogul replaces John Daniel. Jr. Inglenook seat. Coppola recently renamed the site “Rubicon. “ 18th largest producer USA.

The Louis Stralla, Napa Wine Co. seat replaced by the Pelissa Family, long time local winegrowers who also represents about 25 small wineries.

Charles Forni's Napa Valley Co-op seat replaced by Hall Wines, owned by Kathryn and Craig Hall. The co-op sold almost all of its wine to E & J Gallo during the 1940’s and into the 70‘s.

Robert Mondavi’s seat replaced by Constellation Company of Canandaigua, New York: 2nd largest in the USA: owns Franciscan Oakville Estate, Mount Veeder Winery, and Robert Mondavi.

Larkmead‘s Elmer Salmina seat replaced by the Frank Family. Rich Frank is a former Disney and Paramount Television executive.

Beringer replaced by Foster's Group of Australia: owns St. Clement, Etude and Stags' Leap Cellars among its other Napa Valley holdings. Foster’s is the 5th largest.

Beaulieu/Mrs. Georges de Latour replaced by Diageo, Great Britain: owns Sterling, Provenance, Acacia and Jade Mountains. 8th largest in the USA.
"

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