Wines for New Year's
By David Stoneberg
For the Register
Vintner George Vierra decided the answer to the question “If you could have any wine in the world to celebrate the New Year, what wine would it be?” It required a history lesson about Napoleon, while vintner Ted Edwards said the question prompted some discussion between he and his wife.
Others answered the e-mail query simply and with just a few words. Jamey Whetstone, for example, writes, “1986 Vosne Romanee ‘Cros Parantoux’ Henri Jayer. ‘Nuff’ said.”
Quite a few of the responses were lovely and the writers brought up loved ones and family — the most important elements of our lives. For example, Neil Aldoroty writes, “To answer your question, if I could have any wine in the world, I would first do some research and find the best U.S. or French wine/champagne still available for purchase from 1976. My reason is because in that year my life changed forever. I met the love of my life, my wife, Karen. So whatever would remind me of that meeting would be a true blessing.”
Others spoke about New Years and its celebrations. Bill Nancarrow writes, “Vintage Champagne. Champagne is the perfect celebratory beverage, and being from ‘Down Under’ I’m used to celebrating New Years at the beach. My choice needs to be refreshing and also celebrate an annual event. Plus, most vintage Champagnes are bloody good.”
Ted Newmeyer, though, wrote about his idea for a quiet and perfect New Year’s celebration. “My choice would be to savor a vintage Port (at least half as old as myself) in the quieter hours of New Year’s Eve, in intimate celebration with one or two well-beloved friends. I would do so with thankfulness — expressed in silent joy as well as in erudite encomiums — for all the most exquisite experiences that life has to offer. This would be a nice counterpoint to the Champagne-fueled extraversion of the midnight hour.”
In random order, then, the other responses are as follows:
• “If I felt like indulging myself and doing good for the human race at the same time (and who can beat a combo like that!), I’d go right for a bottle of ZD Abacus. The complexity and charm of these beautiful older vintages of cabernet blended with the new, and the knowledge that this wine was created by a loving and immensely charitable family would give the New Year celebration grace in every sense of the word. And, it would be a tiny gesture to honor our dear friend, Norm de Leuze.” — Bunnie Finkelstein.
• “The oldest California cabernet I had this year was also the best wine I tasted all year — the 1969 Chappellet Cabernet Sauvignon, which, at 38 years of age, is still too young to drink! For my imaginary New Year celebration, I would open another bottle of this ambrosial nectar, made by Philip Togni when he was winemaker at Chappellet.
“Napa Valley cab doesn’t get any better!” — Jim White.
• From Ted Edwards: “This really stirred up some conversation between my wife and me. (She said Domaine Serene PN; I think she watched ‘Sideways’ too much.)
“For me ... it is the 1991 Sycamore Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon from Freemark Abbey.
“I tasted this recently and it is perfection ... which is what I want on New Year’s Eve! Plus, I made it ... it is hard to replace this feeling of accomplishment and satisfaction. I find the wine to be opaque garnet in color, and brooding with black fruits like black currant and a foundation of forest floor. Tons of depth in this wine keeps you interested with some aromatic cedar, clove and spice.”
• “I would celebrate with a bottle of Seduction in the special Lovers, Friends and You gift box.
“New Years is a time to both reminisce and to look forward with that special group of people we surround ourselves with. So I would want the wine to both have what I want inside the bottle, but also to have the packaging reflect the special occasion and the special people I am sharing it with.” — Bart O’Brien.
• “At the stroke of midnight on New Years a bottle of 1948 Taylor Fladgate Port. I love opening an old bottle of Port with Port tongs fresh from the fireplace to break off the top of the bottle so the old cork can continue to rest in peace. Of course, old bottle will take plenty of English savory dishes to accompany the Port. Old Port is so delicately sweet to the touch on your pallet and the nose is of old memories with friends who are wine lovers. It might take more than two people to indulge but well worth sharing.” — Cary Gott
• “I hope all goes well for all as this somewhat trying year comes to a close. As to your question, my ‘psychological test’ answer to the word ‘celebration’ is immediately Champagne! Having been given the honor to make S. Anderson sparkling wine for five years, I developed a deep appreciation for the art of crafting a fine methode champenoise sparkler, and my choice today would be the beautiful Blanc de Blanc made at Domaine Carneros they call ‘Le Reve.’ Pop a cork and celebrate! Thanks again.” — Jac Cole.
• “1961 DRC Burgundy. Always wanted to taste a DRC (Domain Romanee-Conti), why not one from my birth year!” — Todd Miller.
• “Two wines are worthy of pursuit. The first, 1792 Napoleon Madeira.
“From the Blandy Web site. ‘On Aug. 7, 1815, a British warship, the HMS Northumberland, taking Napoleon to St. Helena for his final exile stopped at Madeira to take on supplies. Napoleon was persuaded to purchase a pipe of Madeira. (A pipe is a barrel containing a little less than 600 bottles). The pipe was never opened by Napoleon as he developed a severe gastric complaint and his doctors forbade him to drink any alcohol. After the ex-Emperor’s death in 1821, there was a dispute over payment of the pipe and it was returned to Madeira where it lay with Blandy’s until 1840. Most of the wine — an estimated 400 bottles — was then used to make the famous solera of 1792, but some bottles — perhaps 200 — were filled using only the wine from Napoleon’s pipe. These bottles are immensely rare, with only a few still in existence.
“A bottle of this Napoleon Madeira wine was opened as a special honor for Sir Winston Churchill on a visit to Madeira in 1950. Sir Winston insisted on serving each guest himself, asking ‘Do you realize that when this wine was vintaged Marie Antoinette was still alive?’
“In 1792 the French revolution was reaching its climax — in August the Tuileres Palace was stormed and Louis XVI arrested and taken into custody. In 1792 Mozart had been dead for less than a year and Rossini was born. George Washington was president of the United States.
“The second is 1921 Chateau d’Yquem — Estate bottled. Called by many as the greatest white vintage of the 20th century. Can now buy it in London at old wine merchants for a mere £4,750 for a 750-ml bottle. At present exchange rate that’s about $9,700. Last tasting notes published … with its brilliant orange-amber color, this is a truly elegant wine that balances its sweetness and flavors on a razor edge. The finish has apricot, vanilla, pear, toast, fig, tobacco and coffee.
“These might be decent wines to try.” — George Vierra:
• “I would choose a 1976 Caymus Special Select. The reason is because the bottle was given to me by an extremely important person who was in my life at the time and I got to share it with the most important people in my life, my family. Happy holidays to all.” — Aaron Robertson.
• “I, of course, would celebrate with Sempre Vive! My favorite wine. I would serve the ‘03 Miscela with a duck confit in puff pastry with a side of white beans seasoned with sage and fried panchetta. The ‘04 Petit Verdot, (90 percent petit verdot and 10 percent ‘Albie Romeo Old Vine Clone Cabernet Sauvignon), with baby rack of lamb cooked simply with seasoning salt and garlic salt and served with fresh Swiss chard, blanched with onions and re-sautéed with freshly chopped garlic and bebe. To make bebe, put a red bell pepper under the broiler and char its skin, place it in a bag and allow it to steam for 10 minutes. Cool it, peel it, de-seed it and tear it into strips. Lamb makes the petit verdot throw more fruity and sweet.
“I admit that I am totally prejudiced and prefer to drink my wines, but especially when I cook a special meal to ring in the new year.” — Eugenia Romeo.
• “Only once in my life have I had my birthday vintage of Chateau Mouton Rothschild, and that was on a business trip to Bordeaux. If anyone would like to stop by with another bottle for the New Year they would be most welcome. The vintage? Most regard it as the best of the century, so any good Francophile should be able to guess correctly.” — John Gillespie.
• “I would definitely choose bubbly (even though it’s so expected) but I like sparkling wines any time of year. My favorite is Salon Champagne because it’s so clean and bright or for the local favorite, I love Schramsberg’s Brut Rosé. There is something so festive about a flute filled with champagne with all those tiny bubbles rising to the top … and I’ve never been able to master a martini glass.” — Sheila Rockwood.
• “If I could have any wine to celebrate the New Year — a dream wine if you will — a bottle of 1945 Mouton Rothschild to share with my almost 80-year-old father. My dad once owned two bottles and has been talking about it since I ventured to change careers from medicine to wine. He said it was the best wine he ever had and he’s been a big, big influence in everything I do.” — Elizabeth Vianna.
• “John Kongsgaard’s ‘The Judge’ Chardonnay vintage 2003. Why? John is a wonderfully creative person in both his winemaking and lifestyle. This chardonnay is one of the finest examples of artisanal winemaking, showing a true expression of the vineyard and the winemaker’s nonpareil style. Caviar, blinis and chardonnay!” — Susan Boswell.
• “I’d pop the cork on an ‘82 Chateau Cos d’Estournel. Probably my favorite of the ‘82 Bordeaux, and apropos celebrating the moment — I don’t believe that wine has been, or can ever be, better than it is right now.” — P.J. Ochlan.
• “I love this idea! If I could drink any wine in the world for New Year’s? It would be any of the delicious wines made from Napa Valley Grapegrowers vineyards! I am also particularly crazy about 12 Gauge Cab and 20 Gauge Chard this holiday season (by the Gauge Wine Company).” — Jennifer Kopp
• Finally, Chelsea Brittan, writes, “I will be drinking a great small production cabernet that I was just introduced to made here in Napa called, ‘Emerson Brown.’ It’s a wonderfully feminine, fruit forward cabernet, and the perfect wine that pairs with most everything and at $50 it is perfect to take to parties and family gatherings.”
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Vinoveritas wrote on Jan 2, 2008 8:14 PM: