California is not only the quality leader in American wine — it’s also the volume leader, making about 90 percent of all wine produced in the United States.

In France, the quality districts are recognized as Bordeaux and Burgundy, and though other districts also make excellent wine (such as Alsace and the Loire Valley), the volume leader is a vast region called the South of France.

 So large is this region (many regions, actually) that about two bottles of every three produced in France come from the South of France. Included here are regions named Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence, the Rhone Valley and other subdistricts.

 For decades, Americans have known that these slightly warmer areas have produced some good value wines, many with local designations. Grape varieties often were not on such bottlings, and indeed, some of the best wines from the south of France were blends.

Many of the wines that have been exported to the United States over the last few decades have carried the designation “Vin de Pays d’Oc,” and they have often been modest wines at modest prices. But clearly, in such a vast region, some much higher-caliber wines were produced, and two decades ago, Dallas importer Martin Sinkoff was one of the first to see the potential in this area, importing excellent-value wines that were a cut above the ordinary under names Val d’Orbieu and Réserve St. Martin.

 Soon after, a number of other importers cut deals to tap the better Vin de Pays d’Oc wines, but many have since faded and become merely brands of vin ordinaire,  most selling for $5 to $8 a bottle.

One of the key players here some 25 years ago was Robert Skalli, head of a family that initially made a fortune in rice, pasta and affiliated products, and that has for generations farmed wine grapes. Skalli developed the Fortant de France line of wines, mostly made at his large wine making facility at the small Mediterranean port city of Sete, just southwest of Montpellier.

 The Fortant line of wines, which sold for less than $10 a bottle, was always good and a good value. But Skalli (who also opened St. Supery Winery in the Napa Valley 25 years ago) wanted to develop more of a presence with better lines of wines from the south of France.

This month, Skalli debuts a series of new wines that are more upscale from the average so-called d’Oc wines. Included are the old value-priced Fortant line but upgraded in quality, a line bearing the owner’s name, another line from family vineyards in Corsica, and a line of wines from a Rhone property that Skalli recently acquired.

That brand, Maison Bouachon, has in it one superb red wine and a great rose.

A key to the quality of the lower-priced wines was how much control the wine maker had — and how good the wine maker was. Skalli, who actually studied wine making at the University of California at Davis, renovated his winery at Sete, hired better wine makers, and by 2002 had divested most of the pasta and rice businesses to focus on his new passion, wine.

 I tried the new Skalli wines, and was impressed by most of them, including the following:

• 2006 Maison Bouachon Tavel Rose ($17) — A stylish and delightful dry pink wine that has an aroma of raspberries and watermelon and a taste of cherry. No sugar, so best served with poached salmon or tuna.

• 2006 Fortant de France Cabernet Sauvignon ($8) —Stylish, bright aroma of dried cherry and dried herbs and a soft entry but dry finish. A good value for everyday drinking.

• 2003 Clos Poggiale (red), Vin de Corse (Corsica) ($28) — A Syrah/Sangiovese blend that’s brawny, bold and rustic with hints of meaty, earthy black cherry and an affinity for roast meats.

• 2005 Maison Bouachon Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($39) — Rich, rewarding, juicy spiced blueberry fruit and rustic earth tones; loads of fruit in the mid-palate, and a pleasing, long, lingering aftertaste of sour cherry. Should age nicely for a decade.

• 2005 Robert Skalli Chardonnay ($19) — Complex citrus and apple fruit, rich entry, a bit of oak, and a nice, lingering finish.

The Skalli wines are a clear signal that the South of France, despite the handicap of a strong euro and a weak U.S. dollar, intends to export wines to the U.S. market that are better than what we once saw.

 Wine of the Week: 2006 Fortant de France Chardonnay, Vin de Pays d’Oc, ($8) — Bright citrus and spice aroma with a faint kiss of oak and a lovely acid balance, allowing it to work well with seafood. Good value.

Dan Berger resides in Sonoma County. Berger publishes a weekly newsletter on wine and can be reached at danberger@VintageExperiences.com.