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New cookbooks on the shelf
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Friday, November 09, 2007
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Hoping to inspire home cooks to add to their own libraries as well as those of family and friends, chefs and authors across the land are releasing newly published cookbooks by the carload — just in time for the holidays.

Register Features Editor Sasha Paulsen and I pawed through the stacks of attractive, new cookbooks that have crossed our desks in recent weeks, putting together a formidable stack of creative efforts that should appeal to anyone who’s looking for culinary inspiration.
Food Talk: What are your favorite new cookbooks?

The new books range from the latest efforts of local writers (cheese maven Janet Fletcher, Register contributor Lori Lynn Narlock, former Copia culinary instructors Brigid Callinan and Lenny Rice) to inspiring new efforts for creative dishes from TV cooking show host Lidia Bastianich along with tasty, easy recipes from West Coast restaurateur Isabel Cruz.
Cheese, please

• From Vermont-made cheddar to autumnal Rogue River Blue from Oregon to aromatic Brin d’Amour evocative of the Corsican countryside, cheese lovers will appreciate the balance of flavors, textures and tastes offered in Janet Fletcher’s “Cheese & Wine” (Chronicle Books, $24.95). The latest offering from the Napa Valley food columnist and author, this collection of cheeses and the wines that go with them should inspire perfect pairings at home.
The Napa resident’s new book includes a cheese course planner and tips for handling and serving cheese, plus a handy guide to wine selection along with themed cheese platter suggestions for both casual and gala events.

• Whether it’s the first course or the entire menu, fondue is the perfect party food or casual company dinner. It provides an instant theme, and the little required prep time can be done well in advance. From the North Bay’s wine and cheese country come two former Copia culinary instructors, Brigid Callinan and Lenny Rice—who is now Cowgirl Creamery’s head cheesemonger—with a collection of 50 recipes in “Fondue” (Ten Speed Press, $9.95) combining the fun of the ‘70s craze with the complex tastes of European tradition — all in one fondue pot.

In yet another new publication from Lou Seibert Pappas, “Fondue” (Chronicle Books, $14.95) offers traditionalists easy recipes for Bagna Cauda and Tuscan Cheese Fondue as well as entree options for meat fanciers and lighter eaters with Filet Mignon and Shrimp Fondue and Beach Lover’s Fish Pot.

• Beautifully photographed and easy to read, “Laura Werlin’s Cheese Essentials (Stewart, Tabori & Chang, $24.95) is the ultimate guide to buying, serving and cooking with cheese. In each chapter, she demystifies one of the eight styles of cheese — fresh, semi-soft, soft-ripened, surface-ripened, semi-hard, hard, blue and washed-rind — to make navigating the cheese counter much simpler. Included are 50 recipes that showcase different types of cheese in appetizers, salads, main courses and desserts.

Wine-Focused

Meze, tapas, antipasti, antojitos — no matter what you call them, small plates offer big flavor and are an easy alternative to traditional one-plate entrees. In “Small Plates, Perfect Wines” (Andrews McMeel, $16.95), Napa’s Lori Lyn Narlock presents 50 small plate recipes and complementary wine pairings made for sharing with friends.

Along with chapters on salads, vegetables, meat, seafood and desserts, the former Register contributor includes sample party menus and preparation plans as well as tips on buying and serving wine, planning and executing entire menus, plus sample table settings and presentation ideas.

• Celebrate your love of good food and wine with “The Wine & Food Lover’s Diet” (Chronicle Books, $24.95), a unique approach to a healthy lifestyle that focuses on low-glycemic carbohydrates in combination with protein, allowing your body to burn fat instead of storing it.

Among the nation’s leading sports medicine physicians, Dr. Phillip Tirman does not rely on portion control. The trick is in the method, or Meal Planning Trilogy — at each meal eat one protein plus two low-glycemic carbs. He teaches you how to differentiate between high- and low-glycemic carbs and how to raise your good cholesterol (HDL) while lowering your bad cholesterol (LDL).

Hearty Fare

• Including renowned wine country chef Philippe Jeanty’s popular Cream of Tomato Soup in Puff Pastry, Leslie Jonath and Franke Frankeny’s “Soup’s On!” (Chronicle Books, $19.95) contains “soul-satisfying” recipes from your favorite cookbook authors and chefs. It features recipes from respected Bay Area restaurateur Alice Waters as well as TV personalities Jacques Pepin, Martin Yan and Michael Chiarello.

From tempting seafood fare such as Green Lipped Mussels in Coconut Broth with Cilantro Pesto (from Cindy Pawlcyn, founding chef at Mustards Grill and Cindy’s Backstreet Kitchen) to San Francisco chef Hubert Keller’s Cream of Asparagus Soup with Oysters, this one’s a perfect addition to any cook’s collection for crowd-pleasing bowls of soothing nourishment.

• Celebrating 30 years of the original “Moosewood Cookbook,” a unique easel cookbook brings together classic soup recipes from the Mollie Katzen original as well as her “The Enchanted Broccoli Forest” for the first time. “Soups: Mollie Katzen’s Recipes” (Ten Speed Press, $14.95) accents these perennial favorites with five new sophisticated, easy-to-prepare recipes from her current repertoire.

With a stand-up easel and a spiral notebook format, it’s an indispensable collection of 50 hot and chilled soups with broad appeal, including Brazilian black bean, corn chowder; creamy roasted root vegetable; Swiss cheese and onion; potato and chile; Arizona pumpkin; and chilled cantaloupe and peach.

• San Francisco-based food writer, cooking instructor and host of CBS’s “Five Minute Cooking School,” Tori Ritchie was host of Food Network’s “Ultimate Kitchens.” Featuring everyday slow-cooked recipes, “Braises and Stews” (Chronicle Books, $22.95) brings modern convenience and style to old-fashioned comfort food.

Featuring color photographs to guide your creations and a recipe pairing chart to make it easy to decide what accompaniments to choose, this new cookbook serves up secrets for making one-pot meals such as a Classic Pot Roast flavored with carrots and onions as well as Pub Short Ribs.

• Any way you dish it up, a potpie is simply scrumptious. “Yumminess in a dish” is how Maine author Elinor Klivans describes “Potpies” (Chronicle Books, $18.95), her latest cookbook of 50 recipes ranging from classics like beef and vegetable to everyone’s favorite, chicken potpie. Also included are plenty of meatless versions.

Advice about assembling and baking potpies assures that all parts of the fillings will be cooked just right and fillings will stand at crispy and proud attention. And the variety of toppings is a real eye-opener — homemade crusts, store-bought phyllo or puff pastry, tortillas, quick-mixing corn bread or biscuits, even nuts, potatoes and bread.

• Health gurus recommend eating at least three servings of whole grains daily. Packed with more than 75 recipes, Robin Asbell’s latest effort, “The New Whole Grains Cookbook” (Chronicle Books, $19.95) focuses on familiar favorites like whole wheat, oats and rice to newly available varieties such as farro, barley, amaranth and quinoa.

Most of these grains are easily available, and a handy source list will help you find the more unusual ones. Plus a glossary describes each one in detail, including which can be substituted for others and their nutritional content. Recipes range from Creamy Cannellini Bean/Amaranth Soup with Basil to Buttermilk Wheat Germ Pancakes with Yogurt and Blueberry Sauce.

Ethnic cuisines

• “Lidia’s Italy” (Alfred A. Knopf, $35) is the latest cookbook from Lidia Bastianich, one of the matriarchs of Italian cooking in America. It’s her fifth cookbook and a culinary tribute to some of the author’s favorite places in her native land — Istria (where she was born), Trieste, Friuli, Padova, Treviso, Piemonte, Maremma, Rome, Naples, Sicily and Puglia. In each region, the well-liked television cooking show chef introduces readers to the people who are the very heartbeat of Italy — the artisans keeping Italian culinary tradition alive.

Bastianich shares some of her favorite recipes, including Potato Gnocchi Stuffed with Prunes (from Trieste), a Frittata with Asparagus and Scallions (from Istria), an Almond Tart from Andria (from Puglia) and Chicken Cacciatora with Eggplant (from Sicily). There are 140 new regional recipes from the length and breadth of Lidia’s homeland. In each of the regions, the popular restaurateur introduces us to the people who are the very heartbeat of Italy — artisan nonnas who are keeping Italy’s culinary traditions alive. In addition, her daughter, Tanya Bastianich Manuali, an art historian, illuminates the customs and culture of the regions.

• When Isabel Cruz opened her first small restaurant in San Diego, she cooked what she loved to eat — simple Latin comfort food spiced with the Pacific Rim flavors she knew from her old Los Angeles neighborhood. Her trademark blend of Puerto Rican, Cuban, Mexican, Japanese and Thai cooking allowed her to cut some of the calories and fat so often found in Latin food without ever sacrificing taste.

In “Isabel’s Cantina” (Potter, $27), she shares the deceptively simple recipes that make her five West Coast restaurants so popular, as well as many of her own personal favorites. Gone are heavy refried beans and white rice, replaced by Chipotle White Beans and whole grain Power Rice. Try the author’s delicious Coconut Flan and you’ll never go back to the dog-eared card in your recipe box.

• Jean-Georges Vongerichten became a culinary star when he first began cooking at Lafayette in New York City. He went on to establish the charming bistro JoJo in Manhattan; then introduced fusion cooking at Vong, which now has an outpost in Chicago; created the four-star Jean-Georges and hugely successful Spice Market, both in New York; opened Rama (Spice Market meets Vong) in London; and opened other acclaimed eateries from Shanghai to Las Vegas.

Diners love Jean-George’s innovative, delicious dishes, inspired by vibrant, flavorful foods of Asia. At his renowned restaurants Vong and Spice Market, he is recognized for his ability to create intensely flavored dishes inspired by Asian street food and home cooking, while using Western techniques. Now, the best of the chef’s pan-Asian recipes have been compiled in a new collection, “Asian Flavors of Jean-Georges” (Broadway Books, $40). It features accessible appetizers, soups, salads, main courses, vegetables, rice and noodles and desserts, as well as invaluable tips for streamlining preparation and cooking. Recipes include Crab Fritters with Three Dipping Sauces, Ginger Fried Rice, Pork Vindaloo and Coconut Panna Cotta with Exotic Fruit Salad.

• Madhur Jaffrey, the culinary world’s noted expert on Indian food, once again brings a no-fuss attitude to deceptively elaborate meals in her latest edition of “Quick and Easy Indian Cooking” (Chronicle Books, $19.95). Don’t be fooled by the infusion of exotic spices in dishes like Lamb with Cardamom, Chicken Korma or Indian Mashed Potatoes. Jaffrey’s dishes achieve simplicity without sacrificing flavor. In fact, most recipes can be prepared in a half hour or less.

She even turns an old dinner standby like chicken, green beans and rice into something entirely new, just by incorporating spices like cumin, turmeric, paprika and cayenne. Whether you’re looking for recipes for light snacks or a full dinner complete with side dishes, Jaffrey’s latest effort demonstrates that putting together tasty dishes with wonderful flavors doesn’t mean spending hours in the kitchen.

• It’s hard to imagine a time when pot stickers, hot-and-sour soup and minced chicken in lettuce wraps were unfamiliar items on Chinese-American restaurant menus. But in 1961, when Cecilia Chiang opened her now legendary San Francisco restaurant, the Mandarin, most Chinese restaurants in the United States served Cantonese or Americanized food like egg foo yung. A pioneer in the food world, Chiang introduced Americans to authentic northern Chinese cuisine, earning the adoration of generations of diners.

In “The Seventh Daughter” (Ten Speed Press, $35), Chiang presents a classic collection of recipes framed by her gripping life story. From cherished childhood dishes to definitive Mandarin classics such as Easy Sizzling Rice Soup, Mandarin Crispy Chicken Salad, Cecilia’s Garlic Noodles and Sichuan Spicy Eggplant, Chiang’s newest cookbook demonstrates her purist approach to authentic Chinese home cooking.

Yummy desserts

• Appealing to both expert and occasional bakers, “Sky High” (Chronicle Books, $35) makes it possible to bake elegant, ornate and professional-looking cakes within the comfort of the simplest home kitchen. From old favorites like Boston Cream Pie and Triple Chocolate Fudge Cake to new inventions like Santa Fe Blue Cornmeal Cake with Caramel Cream and Dulce de Leche, this new cookbook by Alisa Huntsman and Peter Wynne is perfect for traditionalists and adventurers alike.

Introductory chapters offer a guided tour through different cake varieties, ingredients and baking techniques, and one chapter presents innovative recipes that combine classic flavors like chocolate, lemon and caramel with international imports like chai, rum and ginger.

• Over the past ten years, Elizabeth Falkner has transformed her bakery from a tiny space in San Francisco’s Mission District to the country’s ultimate dessert destination. In “Demolition Desserts” (Ten Speed Press, $35), Falkner presents her favorite creations, from the cookies, brownies and cupcakes beloved by Citizen Cake regulars to the plated desserts that have made her one of the most dynamic culinary talents of her generation.

She begins with a chapter devoted to chocolate chip cookies, building from a straight-up version to the more-is-more Chocolate Chip Mania. Provocatively titled compositions like A Chocolate Tart Named Desire, S’More A Palooza and Gingerbread Bauhaus capture Falkner at the top of her art, breaking down classic desserts and reconstructing them flavor by flavor.

• Domingo Ghirardelli learned the secrets of artisan chocolate making while growing up in a small hill town in his native Italy. Tempted west by stories of opportunity in America, Ghirardelli struck it rich with his sumptuous confections during San Francisco’s Gold Rush days. More than 150 years later, the Ghirardelli name continues to be a standard-bearer for premium chocolate.

“The Ghirardelli Chocolate Cookbook” (Ten Speed Press, $18.95) entices chocolate lovers with more than 80 decadent recipes, including some classics like Devil’s Food Layer Cake, a show-stopping Triple Chocolate Truffle Cake and the ultimate gooey Lava Cakes, as well as easy ones for Chocolate Waffles and Chocolate Banana Crepes.

• When you are working with great ingredients, you want to keep dishes simple. You don’t want to blur flavor by overcomplicating. This is why “Pure Dessert” (Artisan, $35), from Berkeley’s Alice Medrich, offers the simplest of recipes, using the fewest ingredients in the most interesting ways. There are no glazes, fillings or frostings — just dessert at its purest, most elemental and most flavorful.

Medrich takes the home cook where he or she hasn’t been, using, for example, whole grains, usually reserved for breads, to bring a lovely nutty quality to cookies and strawberry shortcake. Pound cake takes on a new identity with a touch of olive oil and sherry. Unexpected cheeses make divine soufflés. Chestnut flour and walnuts virtually transform meringue.

• In “Christmas Sweets” (Chronicle Books, $18.95), Bay Area author Georgeanne Brennan shares some of her personal favorites in an irresistible collection of recipes for baked goods, candies and frozen desserts. This festive cookbook also includes fun craft and gift ideas for using sweet treats to decorate the home and table that children and adults of all ages will enjoy.

“Christmas Sweets” offers more than 50 recipes, from cookie jars filled with Pecan Lace Cookies and Apricot-Pistachio Bars to boxes of homemade candy brimming with Chocolate Fudge, Almond Butter Toffee or Turkish Delight.

• Deep in the heart of Texas lies the inviting town of Fredericksburg, where the annual Christmas parade marks the beginning of Hill Country holiday season. Then it’s time for the Pastry Queen — aka Rebecca Rather — to kick into high gear making her royally irresistible goodies at the Rather Sweet Bakery & Cafe.

In “The Pastry Queen Christmas” (Ten Speed Press, $32.50), Rather shares 95 traditional recipes reflecting her “made with love from scratch” philosophy and the tastes of small town Texas. Delectable desserts such as Caramel Pie with Meringue Topping or Red Velvet Cupcakes with Mascarpone Cream Cheese Icing are the perfect toppers to a family-style feast of LBJ Ranch Crown Roast of Lamb with Rice Stuffing and Jalapeño Mint Sauce, Green Bean Bundles, Mustard Baked Ham and Green Chile and Cheddar Baking Powder Biscuits.

American classics

• Widely recognized as one of the fathers of New American cuisine, Jonathan Waxman became a mentor to hundreds of chefs on both coasts. In his latest cookbook, the founder of the legendary Jams in New York and former chef of Napa’s Table 29 shows home cooks how to flex their culinary muscles while having fun in the kitchen.

“A Great American Cook” (Houghton Mifflin, $35) presents Waxman’s finest dishes the way he makes them at home. They include Red Pepper Pancakes with Corn and Caviar that he created when he ran the kitchen of Alice Waters’ Chez Panisse, his famous Grilled Chicken with JW Fries and a homey Pizza with Bacon, Scallions, Parmesan and Tomato that’s a family weeknight favorite.

• Three decades ago, James Peterson — with passion for good food but no cooking experience — taught himself to cook by working his way through stacks of books and professional kitchens from the disgusting to the divine. Now a culinary teacher with 13 cookbooks and a James Beard Foundation award, Peterson distills 30 years of expertise and knowledge into one definitive, all inclusive, learn-to-cook cookbook, “Cooking” (Ten Speed Press, $40).

With 1,500 instructional photos and 600 hard-working recipes that everyone should know — from the perfect roasted chicken to apple pie — no other cookbook has such a comprehensive combination of recipes and step-by-step color photography. In addition, it contains the fundamentals all home cooks should master and the tricks Peterson learned from some of the world’s greatest chefs, such as how to carve a turkey, poach eggs, fillet a fish, seed tomatoes, trim an artichoke, shuck oysters or ice a cake — all fully illustrated.

• Now available in paperback, “Saveur Cooks Authentic American” (Chronicle Books, $24.95) expands the definition of distinctly American food to encompass our country’s wide range of cultural experience. Drawing upon the idea that all Americans are — in one sense or another — immigrants, the books does not hesitate to define authenticity as diversity.

Within 320 glossy pages, recipes for meat loaf, mashed potatoes and apple pie exist side by side with recipes for dishes like beef borscht, matzo ball soup and carne picada burritos. From quail jambalaya of the Louisiana bayou region to Old Italian cooking in San Francisco’s North Beach, this effort from the editors of Saveur magazine prove that what’s as American as apple pie is, perhaps, just as American as chiles rellenos or gnocchi.
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