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The festive meals of Ramadan get more universal, thanks to globalization
Wednesday, September 26, 2007
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Fasting and festive meals might seem unusual partners to many Western sensibilities, but for Muslims around the world the monthlong celebration of Ramadan weds the two gloriously.

The daily fasts of Ramadan, intended as a time to reflect and regroup, are broken with celebratory evening meals where friends and family gather in homes, cafes and tea houses.
“In fact, it is generally observed that food consumption during Ramadan goes up, not down. People even gain weight,” says Sami Zubaida, co-editor of “Culinary Cultures of the Middle East.”

And thanks to globalization, the traditions and practices of Ramadan are becoming increasingly universal.
“You see that because there is this kind of easy communication, satellite television, all kinds of media that spread this information, that things are becoming standardized throughout the world for Muslims,” says Zubaida. “I wouldn’t be surprised if people in Indonesia and Nigeria are picking up on some Middle Eastern patterns of behaviors and foods.”

Daily fasts during Ramadan — from Sept. 13 to Oct. 13 this year — often are broken by the eating of a date, a widespread practice that follows the example of the Prophet Muhammad.
After the date, the iftar meal is taken. The foods still vary by region, but there are similarities across populations.

One example is a dense soup made from wheat and typically lamb, chicken or turkey. It can be sweet or savory, and is known as halim in Iran, India and Pakistan; harissa in parts of Syria and the Persian Gulf, and kashka in Iraq and Turkey.

Traditionally, the early morning meal, taken at dawn before the fast begins, is substantial. In Morocco, a dish called harira is a thick soup of beans, meats and dried fruits. It is intended to sate one’s appetite until dusk.

“People try to stay awake until almost sunrise where they will have the second meal which is the sahor. Then they can do the morning prayers and go to sleep,” says May Bsisu, author of the cookbook “The Arab Table.”

A wide array of sweets, pastries and puddings also are traditional, such as Iran’s sholeh zard, a sweet rice pudding with saffron, cinnamon and blanched almonds. In fact, in Turkey, the slang for Eid al-Fitr is the feast of sugar, or shekar bayram.
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