When Eileen Crane decided to become a winemaker — a groundbreaking move for a woman 20 years ago — there was a reason she decided to focus on sparkling wines: “I knew I’d be tasting a lot of it,” she said.

Now celebrating her 20th year as winemaker and president of Domaine Carneros — and her 30th harvest — Crane is considered “the doyenne of sparkling wine.”

Sparkling wines are summer’s drink: festive, fun and versatile. It’s summer’s wine — just the sight of the trails of bubbles rippling up a flute can cool off a hot day.

 Crane said she sometime adds variety by mixing up her own variations of sparkling wine drinks. The key, she noted, when using premium quality sparkling wines like the ones she makes is “use a light touch.”

The classic Champagne Cocktail, made with Angostura bitters, brandy, sugar cubes and lemon, for example, she modifies, to a bit of bitters and twist of lemon. “I just forget the brandy and sugar,” she said.

Another favorite, the Kir Royale, made with cassis syrup, she noted, “is a classic and for a good reason — it’s delicious.” Make sure all the ingredients are superb quality, she notes. She uses D’Arbo syrups, which are sold at the Carneros winery. The traditional Kir Royale calls for 1/3 black currant syrup and 2/3 sparkling wine, but “that’s way too overwhelming,” she said. “I use 1/4 to 1/2 of a teaspoon.” Crane said she also often drops a blackberry into the bottom of a flute, for a dramatic touch.

D’Arbo also makes an elderberry syrup, which Crane said, she is increasingly hearing sparkling wine fans talk about adding to a glass of Champagne or sparkling wine — but again, just 1/4 to 1/2 of a teaspoon.

And one of her favorite summer sparklers? Adding a slice of peach to a glass of sparkling rosé, like the one just released by Domaine Carneros. “It’s so easy and it’s something different — and it wows guests,” she said.

“I probably drink sparkling wine four times a week — and not just my own,” Crane said. On a practical side, she noted that if you use a good stopper to close a bottle of sparkling wine, it will keep seven to 10 days in a refrigerator.

“On those days when it’s been a hard day or you’ve nothing special for dinner,” she said, “pouring a glass of sparkling wine, sitting on a deck with a dish of almonds — it can transform a day. It just makes you feel like a princess.”

There are those who would say sparkling wine is also the drink for spring, fall and winter. “I like to say it cools you off on a hot day and heats you up on a cold one,” said Donna Young, who works in hospitality at Mumm Napa Valley.

  With the harvest for sparkling wine grapes well underway —  and with rumors afloat that there may be a shortage of Champagne — it seemed like a good time to visit the sparkling wine industry here in the valley, which will keep us in good supply. Each of the valley’s sparkling winemakers has something special that can add an extra zip to a winery visit —  much the same way a glass of their sparkling wine can enliven a Sunday brunch or a summer supper as well as a special occasion.

Domaine Carneros

  When the French Champagne house Taittinger decided to build a winery in the Napa Valley, they brought all their French style with them. The winery is a replica of the Louis XV style Chateau de la Marquetterie in Champagne, which is now the home of the Taittinger family, and the sweeping views from its decks, which look out over the Carneros region, are stunning. Just across the Carneros Highway — marked by the two-dimensional sheep grazing on a hillside below a lake — is the di Rosa Preserve, Arts and Nature, a collection of art from Northern California artists, created by Rene di Rosa.

New at Domaine Carneros are tours that offer tastings as you go through the winery. The 45-minute tours, which cost $25 per person, stop for sips of the Vintage Brut, Le Reve Blanc de Blanc and Brut Rosé along with Domaine Chandon’s one still wine, a pinot noir. Visitors can also sit on the terrace for tastings in flights or by the glass, which can be paired with cheese plates, smoked salmon and caviar.

  “We want visitors to remember the feeling of sitting here in the summer when they go back home and it’s snowing,” said Chris Vomolakis, who works in the tasting room. One of his recommended ways to enjoy their wine: “Take it home, jump in the bath and enjoy a glass of bubbles.” For tours and information, call 257-0101.

  

Schramsberg

The sparkling wine story in Napa Valley begins at Schramsberg, just off Highway 29 in Calistoga. Here Jack and Jamie Davies made history in the 1960s by reviving the century-old Jacob Schram winery, and then deciding to make sparkling wine. Their pioneering effort was so successful that President Nixon served Schramsberg wines at the White House.

A highlight of a visit to Schramsberg is a tour of the wine caves that were hand-hewn by Chinese workers and are still used for storing and aging Schramsberg wines. Mysterious, romantic and the perfect setting for a murder mystery, the caves offer a glimpse back into the history of valley winemaking. Space is limited at Schramsberg, so visits are by appointment only. The winery offers four scheduled tours daily at 10 a.m., 11:30 a.m., 1 p.m. and 2:30 p.m. The tours last about an hour. The cost is $25 per person and includes a tasting. All tastings at Schramsberg are done in conjunction with tours. Visitors to the winery must be over 21 years of age.

 Schramsberg also offers a Tuesday and Wednesday “Sparkling Affair, a Food and Wine Pairing,” at 11:30 a.m. The cost is $50 per person, and $25 for Cellar Club members. During September and October, this program will also be available on Mondays and Thursdays.

We tried our own pairing experiment by taking several bottles of Schramberg wines to the nearby Calistoga Inn. Perfect on a hot summer day: Grilled salmon and the Brut Rosé.

For reservations or inquiries at Schramsberg, call 942-4558 or visit www.schramsberg.com. 

Mumm Napa Valley

    A favorite stop for visitors on the Silverado Trail in Rutherford. Mumm offers complimentary tours daily on the hour between 10 a.m. and 3 p.m. The tours conclude on the decks, which offer a stunning view across the valley. Visitors can taste Mumm wines, both their sparkling and still, in flights or by the glass. Flights range from $25 for the “The Winemaker’s Finest” a flight of the flagship DVX wines, to $11 for the Mumm Classics.

  Rob MacNeil, former winemaker and now vice president for operations at Mumm, notes that sparkling wines are a summer favorite in the United Kingdom. “You can track sparkling wine consumption in relation to the weather,” he said. “For me I’d go with Blanc de Noir, or the Cuvée M, a new, slightly sweeter sparking that can stand up to fruits of summer. Cuvée M next to fresh fruit is a natural.” One of his favorite pairings is with figs, melon and proscuitto.

   A visit to Mumm should include a look at the photo gallery, which houses a permanent exhibit of Ansel Adams’ original prints donated by the master’s grandson. The Mumm gallery also has rotating photographer shows. Right now this show features works by Andy Katz — gorgeous images of Sonoma and Tuscany — through Sept. 9.

Domaine Chandon

   What sets Yountville’s Domaine Chandon apart is that it’s the only winery in the valley that has a high-end restaurant on its premises. At étoile, executive chef Chris Manning works closely with Domaine Chandon winemakers to create menus that really make the wines sparkle. Food is also available in the tasting room, where you can order olives, paté, salads, smoked salmon and sandwiches, and take them out on patios that overlook the park-like setting of the winery.

  Tours are offered at the winery daily at 11 a.m., and 1, 3 and 5 p.m. The basic tour is $7. A tour with a tasting is $20. The Ambassador Tour, $30 per person, includes a tasting of five wines.

    The arts are also a part of the winery’s settings, from the whimsical rock sculptures on the grounds to the exhibits by local artists inside the winery. Just now viewers can see works by Napa photographer Vi Bottaro. Another bonus is the winery is just steps away from the Napa Valley Museum, located on the grounds of the adjacent Veterans Home of California. This small but fine museum is one of the valley’s treasures.

  For reservations or more information about Domaine Chandon’s programs, call 944-2280.

Artesa

  Although Artesa winery shifted its focus from sparkling to still wines in 1997, it still makes a Grand Reserve sparkling wine you can taste at the winery. Besides, Artesa is one of the most spectacular wineries to visit. The dramatic winery has an intriguing collection of art works by Napa artist Gordon Huether, and from its hilltop perch in Carneros on a clear day you can see the San Francisco skyline. The sparkling wine is $10 a glass, but, said tasting room worker Rick Ceja, many couples opt to buy a bottle ($40), “and sit outside and enjoy the view.”