It was an alert reader who notified us that the Foothill Café, closed since January, was back in business -- prompting a swift trip to "the one and only since 1991" cafe that helped put Napa on the food map.

Chef Jerry Shaffer who opened the neighborhood bistro on Old Sonoma Road, has returned but is modifying the menu, in a reflection of the changing times and restaurant scene in Napa. He's renamed it the Foothill Grille.

"Above all I want it to be a neighborhood place," said Shaffer, who took off a year to work in Tahoe and is now back in the Foothill kitchen with his son.

Although he's trained in the classical French tradition -- talents that put the original Foothill Cafe on the San Francisco Chronicle's list of top 100 Bay Area restaurants as well as in the first Michelin guide to Northern California restaurants -- Shaffer said he's favoring a simpler menu these days, for dining in the restaurant or for take out.

Rest assured, the "world famous baby back ribs" are still a centerpiece of the menu and are as delectable as ever. Served with savory garlic mashed potatoes and "slaw," they're $16.95.

Ribs are also available as an appetizer ($8).

The other starters include a soup of the day ($5) calamari with lemon aoli and capers ($8); crispy rock shrimp with ancho chili aoli ($8), and a Foothill favorite, the Caesar salad (big and small servings, $8 or $4). Also back on the menu is the "It's Back Baby Spinach Salad" with Thai peanut dressing ($8 and $4).

For entrées, Shaeffer has added a premium Niman Ranch deluxe burger, served with a choice of fries or Caesar salad ($9), which is the quintessential burger fix.

Also new are Baja fish tacos ($8.50) for two marvelous creations of blue corn tortillas filled with grilled snapper, chipolte aioli, pico and avocado.

Other entrees are the grilled angus hanger steak with garlic mashed potatoes and veggies ($14); roasted local halibut with celery root and summer veggies beautifully seasoned with lemon, olive oil, capers and parsley ($16), and a Thai spinach salad transformed into a satisfying entreé with the addition of chicken, feta cheese, broccoli, snap peas and candied pecans ($9). For a vegetarian entrée, summer vegetables are served with a creamy polenta ($12).

The dessert menu changes daily; the day we were there offerings were a nectarine cobbler and a crme brlée.

There's no corkage charge -- always a popular choice -- but local wines are also offered with some nice and reasonably priced choices by the glass, another welcome note: a Carneros pinot gris from étude ($6); 2005 St. Clement Chardonnay ($5.50); an Amparo Rosé from Stags Leap Winery ($6), a 2004 Beringer Knights Valley cab ($7.50) and Fleur Carneros pinot noir ($7.50).

The takeout menu offers salads ($6.50), calamari ($6.95); tempura rock shrimp ($7.50); ribs (with fries) ($14.95); brick oven barbecue chicken, fries and slaw ($8.95); Baja shrimp tacos ($8.25); and the wonderful burger ($6.50) with fries ($3) or garlic fries ($5).

On the night we dropped by, word of mouth had already spread, and friends and neighbors were filling the place, clearly in a celebratory mood, happy to welcome back an institution that offers charm, friendliness and flavor.

Foothill Grille is at 2766 Old Sonoma Road. For reservations or to order take-out call 257-2270.