The intense, dry heat of the grill can be a chicken breast's worst enemy.

That's because these naturally low-fat cuts have a tough time holding their moisture under these cooking conditions. But fear of tough, dry meat need not banish this healthy food from the grate as peak grilling season dawns.

Getting moist and flavorful boneless, skinless chicken breasts off the grill can be easy. It all starts at the market.

Jennifer Armentrout, the test kitchen manager for Fine Cooking magazine, recommends buying air-chilled chicken breasts, not water-chilled (this usually is indicated on the label). She says the water chilling process can dilute the chicken's flavor.

Armentrout also suggests buying chicken breasts that are all the same size. Uniform pieces will cook more evenly, lessening your chances of over- or undercooking some.

If you can't get breasts of similar sizes, consider placing the meat between sheets of plastic wrap and using a meat mallet or rolling pin to pound them flat. Not only does this tenderize the meat, it also produces breasts of uniform thickness.

Some recipes call for the tenderloin (the strip of rib meat attached to the underside of the breast) to be removed. This makes the chicken easier to handle on the grill, and helps ensure even cooking. Save the tenders for satays or oven-baked chicken fingers. And always trim off any visible fat or sinew.

When it comes to cooking, boneless, skinless chicken breasts should be grilled quickly over moderate to high heat. Cooking them too slowly will dry them out.

Test for doneness with a meat thermometer, which should read 165 F when the probe is inserted into the center of the thickest part of the chicken breast.

When it comes to flavor, chicken relatively neutral, which makes it perfect for a variety of treatments.

Marinades add flavor and moisture, plus provide a thin coating of oil that helps keep the chicken from drying out during grilling. The acid in a marinade, often vinegar or lemon juice, helps to tenderize the chicken. But too much acid for too long can produce a mushy texture.

Brining chicken breasts also has a hydrating effect while adding flavor. To make a brine, combine a quart of cold water with several tablespoons of kosher salt. Sugar, honey or even maple syrup also can be added for more flavor.

Chicken breasts should be soaked in the liquid for a couple of hours in the refrigerator.

Another great flavor-boosting technique is using a dry rub. They usually are a blend of spices, salt and sometimes sugar. A dry rub coating, which should be applied just prior to cooking, also adds color.

Wet rubs and pastes essentially are dry rubs with oil or other liquids added. They also help to add moisture, and can be applied just before grilling or in some cases up to 24 hours ahead of time.

This recipe for grilled Thai chicken breasts with herb-lemon grass crust from the July issue of Fine Cooking provides fabulous flavor and moisture from a mixture that is somewhere between a marinade and a paste.

The recipe serves 12, so it's perfect for a backyard barbecue.

Grilled Thai Chicken Breasts with Herb-Lemongrass Crust

1 1/2 cups chopped fresh cilantro (leaves and tender stems), divided

3/4 cup coconut milk

1/4 cup finely chopped lemon grass (from 2 stalks)

12 fresh basil leaves

3 Thai bird chilies (2 jalapenos or 2 medium serranos can be substituted), stemmed, seeded and finely chopped

3 cloves garlic, minced

1 1/2 tablespoons kosher salt

2 tsp. packed light brown sugar

1 1/2 tsp. freshly ground black pepper

3/4 tsp. ground coriander

12 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (5 to 5 1/2 pounds), trimmed (remove the tenderloins if still attached)

2 limes, cut into wedges, for serving

In a food processor or blender, combine 1 1/4 cups of the cilantro with the coconut milk, lemon grass, basil, chilies, garlic, salt, brown sugar, black pepper and coriander. Puree until smooth.

In a nonreactive baking dish or wide bowl large enough to accommodate them, arrange the chicken breasts in a single layer. Pour the marinade over the chicken, then turn the breasts to coat well. Cover and refrigerate for 2 hours, or up to a day.

When ready to cook, lightly coat the grill rack with cooking spray. Heat a gas grill to medium-high or prepare a medium-hot charcoal fire.

Grill the chicken (covered on a gas grill) until it has dark grill marks on the first side, about 4 to 5 minutes. Flip the chicken and continue to cook (covered on a gas grill) until firm to the touch and completely cooked through, about 5 to 6 minutes more.

Transfer the chicken to a platter and let rest for 5 minutes. Sprinkle with the remaining cilantro and serve with lime wedges. Serves 12.

Nutrition information per serving: 240 calories; 7 g fat (4 g saturated); 105 mg cholesterol; 3 g carbohydrate; 39 g protein; 0 g fiber; 510 mg sodium.

Recipe from the Web site of Fine Cooking magazine, http://www.taunton.com/finecooking/