Frank Ottomanelli makes a point of knowing his customers. If not by name, at least by meat.

And so when “Lamb Chop Lady” or “T-bone Mike” walk in to his old-style New York butcher shop, Ottomanelli is able to give them the sort of personalized service that can mean the difference between a divine dinner and a deep disappointment.

Here are some basics that will help you make your relationship with your butcher a meaningful one.

• Most grocers stock “choice” cuts, the most popular grade. “Select,” the lowest retail grade, is what Schneller calls the “you-better-marinate-’em” grade; it’s lean and tough. Higher-end butchers stock the much better “prime” grade.

• When it comes to steaks, a hefty price often means a foolproof cut. T-bone, porterhouse, top loin, sirloin and tenderloin steaks are tender enough to call for little more than some salt and pepper and a quick turn on the grill.

• If you want a steak on the cheap, consider tougher cuts  marinate them first.

• When looking for ribs, such as baby back, barbecue expert Steven Raichlen says to be sure to ask the butcher for a rectangular rack that’s not very curved. This helps it sit flatter on the grill and cook evenly. Aim for a rack that’s about 2- 1/2 pounds (with bone) of well-marbled meat.

• For lamb chops, which are easily and quickly grilled, the best (and priciest) bets are rib and loin chops.

• If burgers are on the menu, ask the butcher to grind your beef for you that day. And for the best taste, stick with beef that is 20 percent fat; anything less will produce dry burgers.