Mountain vineyards produce some of the valley’s best fruit, evidenced by the amazing wines made year after year from the harvest of the Brandlin Vineyard on Mount Veeder.

Head-trained vines on the remote ranch were first planted on a ridgeline overlooking the valley in the mid-1920s by Henry Brandlin and his sons, Richard and Chester.

No doubt, the remaining vines are probably the oldest on Mount Veeder, continuing to produce intensely flavored grapes which, for all these years, have grown without any irrigation other than winter and spring rains.

In 1998, Chester Brandlin sold the 170-acre Brandlin Ranch to Cuvaison, with its 38 acres of vines. Cuvaison replanted the vineyard with Bordeaux varieties — cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, malbec and petit verdot — and retained some old vine zinfandel, all spread over a total of 15 blocks. The soil on the mountain consists of metamorphic schist, shale and gravelly loam, with the elevation providing more moderate temperatures than those on the valley floor.

“We brought to Brandlin Vineyard all the lessons of Cuvaison’s 38 years of viticulture — great care in the study of sun exposures and soil types, and profound respect for the environment,” noted winemaker Steven Rogstad.

“Our intention is to honor the Brandlin family with a namesake vineyard that produces intense and elegant cabernet sauvignon.”

The first release of Brandlin cabernet sauvignon from the Cuvaison cellar took place with the 2003 vintage. Total production was just under 600 cases and the wine was available only at the winery.

Now, as Rogstad and his Cuvaison associates get set to release Brandlin 2004, plans are afoot for national distribution in 10 major U.S. markets. Still, production is small, just shy of 800 cases.

For years and years, the Brandlin family sold most of its fruit to Christian Brothers. In light of the sale of Christian Brothers in the early ’90s, winemaker Peter Franus entered into a contract with Chester Brandlin to purchase the zinfandel grapes which Brother Timothy prized.

Rogstad said Cuvaison is honoring that agreement so that Franus is still able to produce an old vine zinfandel every harvest.

Cuvaison recently offered area residents an opportunity to taste both the 2003 and 2004 Brandlin cabernet sauvignon, along with a barrel sample of 100 percent unblended cabernet sauvignon from the 2005 harvest. Also provided to tasters who dropped by the winery’s facilities in Calistoga and Carneros was the 2006 sauvignon blanc. Here’s our thoughts:

Cuvaison Estate 2006 Carneros Sauvignon Blanc ($19): We don’t often think of Carneros as a region for growing sauvignon blanc. Yet this shows that Carneros terroir can indeed produce a delightful sauvignon blanc. Expressing a modestly floral nose that’s just a tad grassy with citrus notes, this third vintage sauvignon blanc from the Carneros ranch is a bracing mouthful, with great acid and lemon peel on the finish.

Cuvaison Estate 2003 Brandlin ($80): A delightfully inky cabernet (credit the 4 percent petit verdot in the blend for color and structure) that gets its spice and lavender aromas and flavors from the cabernet franc in the blend (6 percent). Cabernet sauvignon (80 percent) and malbec (10 percent) are the dominant wines here, with blackberries and black plums the prominent flavors in this delicious mountain wine.

Cuvaison Estate 2004 Brandlin ($80): More malbec (12 percent) in this year’s blend accounts for a little more acid, a lot more spice. There’s more lavender in the mineral- and black fruit-dominant nose this time around. After spending 22 months in French oak, this lush mountain cab is exploding with plums and Bing cherries that linger and linger on the finish. This one’s a wine you can enjoy right now, one you should  be able to lay down for a couple of years as well.

If the 2005 cabernet sauvignon barrel sample is any indication, the 2005 Brandlin should be a stunner. It has ripe, bold flavors that include blueberries, cinnamon, pepper and coffee. Rogstad can’t wait to put the blend together. It might be wise to put your order in today if production holds at present levels.

The 2004 Brandlin will be available soon at Bay Area retail shops and on local restaurant wine lists. The 2006 sauvignon blanc and 2003 Brandlin are available only at the Calistoga winery, between the hours of 10 a.m. and 5 p.m. daily, or the Cuvaison ranch by appointment (255-7321).