That intriguing mound of dirt, behind fences on First Street near Copia may look like an archaeological dig, but actually it's more about the future of Napa -- and food.

Steve Carlin, CEO and founder of the Oxbow Public Market, said the dry -- until this week -- winter has kept the construction of project on track for its scheduled opening in the fall.

But just what is this self-described champion of local, artisan and quality foods constructing?

"It's a barn," Carlin said. But it's a barn that, when completed will house a collection of 26 food shops and restaurants in addition to stalls selling fresh, local produce.

The St. Helena resident, who was project director for the San Francisco Ferry Building Marketplace, said he became hooked on the idea of public markets when he lived in Europe.

As he worked on the idea of creating public markets in the U.S., he said, "I evaluated the success of public markets around the world: What do they have in common?"

In undertaking this Napa project, he said he realizes he's "going out of the mold" of the public markets that have proved to be a hit on the West Coast, like Granville Island in Vancouver, or Seattle's famous Pike Place as well as San Francisco's Ferry Marketplace.

Those built-in renovated, historic buildings, are in a hub of traffic, attracting tourists as well as residents.

Napa's 40,000-square-foot Oxbow market, he said, begins with a goal of serving the local residents, area farmers and artisan food producers. He described the customer base he envisions in three rings:

"The first ring is the city of Napa and the area around Napa," he said, noting he wants to draw in people from throughout the county to a "community gathering place."

The second ring, he said, is the outer towns, like Fairfield, Vallejo and Sonoma, and the third ring is visitors from where ever they may come.

"The master plan is to bring in things that are unique and interesting, but will let people buy local; buy fresh." Carlin said. "We'll have stores that aren't available (just) anywhere."

Thus far the response to his idea has been enthusiastic, Carlin said. "Our leasing effort is way out in front. We have more interested parties than we have space. I'm trying to piece together a puzzle that represents good eating.

"I'm not trying to compete with Trader Joe's and Whole Foods," he said. "My vision is different. My concern is about local and sustainable -- organic is not enough -- and supporting local farmers. I care about where ingredients come from. This is not about high priced -- it's about artisan products. This is a process I'm going through to make a commitment to small family farms."

Carlin said living in Europe reinforced for him the value of "living seasonally," eating what's produced locally in its natural time.

"It wasn't so long ago that you couldn't buy strawberries in January," he said. "Now people have become used to having them year-round." But what they're getting, he said, is a homogenous product that can't begin to compare with the taste of those strawberries grown locally.

"There's a price to pay," he said. "Homogeneity has lower cost and less flavor. When you live in a seasonal world, you find great flavor and value. If you're buying from the source it's going to be affordable in comparison to what is being trucked or shipped in."

Thus far the puzzle Carlin is creating promises a compelling variety that will offer fresh breads, organic ice cream, rotisserie meats and poultry, cheese vendors, confectioners, coffee, artisan meats, olive oils and -- of course -- wines.

"We'll have 10 farm stands open daily," he noted, in addition to the twice a week Farmers Market, which will still be held on Tuesdays and Saturdays.

"There are no white tablecloth restaurants here," he said. "There's no attempt to make it a highbrow experience. Napa is evolving first and foremost the dynamic has to be created that's a magnet for those who live in Napa."

Oh, and by the way, the reason for that elevated mound of dirt on First Street is to build his new barn "1 foot above the 100-year flood level."

But, he added, he didn't realize until he stood on the necessarily elevated site that his project will have stunning views of the hills to the east and overlooking the Napa River in back.

"It's a place with a view," he said.

No to mention a place with a vision.