WASHINGTON  — More than 30 heads of state, the nation’s governors and a prince, among countless others, have dined there with President Bush, on such delectables as rack of lamb with pistachio nut crust, celery broth with crispy shrimp and warm pear souffle with caramel sauce and chocolate macaroons.

It’s the White House, where only the best of anything is expected.

So, just how good are the menus?

The Associated Press asked a half dozen chefs, caterers and other foodies to press their noses up against the White House kitchen windows, so to speak, and size up the offerings as best they could without — alas — getting to taste them.

Most reviewers praised the menus as well thought-out, showing a good balance of ingredients, classy wine selections and smart use of American products.

But Tim Zagat, familiar to those who use his city-specific restaurant guides, said the menus were “kind of strange” and full of “incongruous combinations that I’m surprised to see on a menu.”

“I would be very happy to have a dish of Maryland blue crab or a dish of Meyer lemon soup or a spinach spaetzle with something that was compatible with it,” he said. “But to have all three at the same time is a little bit incongruous.”

That trio opened a White House dinner last February for governors.

Such elaborate meals are prepared by executive chef Cristeta Comerford. She also whips up more basic and casual fare in her role as chief cook for the president and his family.

Comerford has cooked for at least 33 heads of state since her promotion in August 2005. There have been state, official and social dinners as well as working lunches and breakfasts.