Each Tuesday The Register reviews an area restaurant, with an emphasis on establishments where a couple can dine for $30 or less. Reader suggestions are welcomed.

When a cafe is tucked into the Mervyn’s building, a stone’s throw from downtown Napa’s bus depot, your culinary expectations are modest. Maybe a decent hot dog, nachos with plenty of cheese.

Cafe Kona blew up those expectations with the first spoonful of a meaty chicken noodle soup, followed by a triumph of a sandwich, the spicy Hawaiian ham panini enhanced with chipotle aioli and a tropical relish that made it worthy of the island gods.

In a word, Cafe Kona is a find.

Located at the northwest corner of the Mervyn’s complex, facing the Pearl Street garage, Cafe Kona is clean, bright and well supervised, with a focus on turning out simple fare of uncommon quality.

Despite the cafe’s name, it took us a minute or two to comprehend the Hawaiian theme that permeates the menu and flavors the decor. Cafe Kona makes creative use of a tropical pineapple relish that can appear on both hot dogs and sandwiches.

Teamed up with the aforementioned chipotle aioli, you have created a stunning flavor enhancement package.

The menu features sandwiches, salads and hot dogs, plus coffee drinks and floats.

Despite operating out of tight quarters, Cafe Kona makes most offerings from scratch, including the soups, the friendly counterwoman explained. Today’s soup, chicken noodle, was an exception to the norm, she said.

I ordered the $5.75 Hawaiian panini, featuring Black Forest ham and provolone, while my companion chose the same-price spicy turkey, with jack cheese and chipotle aioli.

The menu includes three $4.50 salads: tuna bowl, potato and garden. A homemade egg salad sandwich is $4.50. For vegetarians, the sandwich option features sun-dried tomatoes, hummus and a house vinaigrette on whole wheat for $5.25.

While waiting for our order, we seated ourselves at one of three small indoor tables. There is a large table with bench seating for bigger groups as well as outdoor seating.

Everything about Cafe Kona was immaculate — walls, flooring, tabletops. The decor is a snappy yellow and blue, with posters of the Hawaiian islands on the wall. A radio played pop music.

Soon after we ordered, the place filled up. Downtown workers, students and shoppers were making Cafe Kona