Monday, December 04, 2006

Style Wise: Stumped?

By Anthea Tolomei

Are you stumped when it comes to choosing clothes or accessories for a holiday gift? We asked Napa fashion educator and consultant Anthea Tolomei for suggestions. Here’s her response:

Ideas for her:

Looking ahead to 2007 fashion trends consider one of these:

• A necklace featuring her eye color. This gift is timeless. Fine jewelry is a worthwhile investment using your favorite jeweler as a guide — but know what you want. Dollars are well spent when the product enhances her features. Names like David Yurman and Judith Ripka offer pieces worth passing on for generations to come.

Even for those on a tight budget, the options are vast. Inexpensive jewelery with semi-precious stones and crystals are at the top of fashion’s trend list. Long necklaces layered over short muti-strands transcend seasons from winter to summer, from corporate wear to chic denim looks . 

 If you need help choosing the right color, shape and size, visit my Web site, www.tolomeiandassociates.com click newsletter and click on the archived fashion columns titled “What About Accessories?” and “Let’s Conquer Color.”

A couple of suggestions for souces: for custom semi precious, crystal stone jewelry - Embellishment Jewelry -Barbara.reich@gmail.co. Vintage pieces: Try  www.marlowejewellers.com. One Napa Valley retailer I often recommend is I-Elle with locations in Yountville and St. Helena.

• A chain necklace

Look for styles with gold or silver links up to the size  of quarter. Longer lengths can do double duty as a belt.

Speaking of belts, they are back and make for an instant update on last year’s ensemble. A waistline not deserving of a belt?  Under a jacket left open we see the waist — what we don’t see is where the waist ends and begins.  Short-waisted?  There’s still room for fashion’s skinny belt in simple leather, chain or Chanel-inspired leather weaved chain.  One more option for the short waist is the hipslung belt.  It dips center front offering the illusion of a longer torso.

 She has lots of room from waist to bustline?  Fashion’s wider versions make for a dramatic finish over cropped jackets, sweater dresses or simple turtleneck slack combos in textures from faux crocodile or animal print to a simple smooth finish.  Since most belts offer metal fixtures, check the color guidlelines on my Web site to choose the right metal for her.

• A splash of an animal print (a little goes a long way) in a handbag, a belt or a scarf. Remember, everyone is a walking roadmap of color.  Allow the shades of her hair, skin and eyes to influence your choice of colors. For examples, chestnut brunettes and auburn blondes are on the warm spectrum with a rich camel, black and brown theme, while ash blondes, white hair and silver grey heads of hair are equally enhanced with white, taupe, grey or black. 

In choosing an animal print handbag, choose a small handbag for a small-framed woman, and a larger bag for a larger woman. As for shape, the new slouchy bags are great but round in feel, which can make a person appear to be more round. Square and sleek is still very chic and often times more flattering to her silhouette.  

As for wearing animal prints, only wear one item even if two or more items match. Silk oblong scarves give figure flattering length when tied in half bows off to the side. Oblongs also offer  little or no surprising interference when both ends are worn dropped behind the shoulders. Oblongs also make great headbands if you have the feautures to pull it off — just remember headbands demand a “good make-up day.”  Oblong cashmere scarves are great over knits or worn as a finish to outer wear at neckline. Silk squares are my least favorite.  They tend to look retro (as in ’80s) very quickly. Best tied on the corner handle of handbags. 

Wear your animal print next to a favorite version of red for exciting contrast.

Ideas for him:

• A new sportcoat. A corduro, lush velvet or texture that blends both makes an exciting update for slacks, cotton twills and jeans. Colorwise, it seems the retail buyers have favored grey, black, brown and taupe.

• The shirt idea is not new for a gift, but if he’s comfortable with the classics, how about a shirt in a color he has yet to try? Take your inspiration for color choices from his hair, eyes and skin or even lip tones. How about coral, dusty rose or rich hues of burgundy or berry?

Brown eyes?  Look long and hard into his eyes and imagine that iris lit from behind. You will find gold, amber, persimmon and sometimes deep green.  These are great shirt colors for him.

Blue eyes?  Does he really need one more blue shirt?  Come on! He already has 12.  Let’s switch gears and visit skin tones. How about pink? Meshed with neutrals in jeans or cotton twill slacks and even under refined suits, the right shade has surprising and flattering side effects.  No, pink is not just for girls.

One more option for a sharp update is the striped shirt in bold narrow stripes. Find a stripe pattern that repeats his hair and eyes or hair, eyes and smile (as in white).

Still not sure on color? Here are two colors that look great on all: Teal (green with blue or blue with green). Second choice: dusty rose.

He’s difficult to fit? Customize the look with the help of alterations. Fit the widest demonator first. Too much fabric ruins the illlusion of a lean modern silhouette.

• The pocket square is back and adding a new twist to business casual. With a little know-how, this is a great wardrobe addition for him. It makes a great finish to the corduroy or velvet sport coat, and it’s also great with a classic yet trend- inspired plain sportcoats in black or deep brown. All this pairs well with jeans to slacks. Let the shirt color dictate the pocket square  — simply repeat color or colors in pattern or solid.

Navy classic blazers also look sharp with pocket squares, but are best reserved for dressier looks.  

Using pocket squares for a corporate look (a suit with tie), opt for a pocket square that carries the same colors as the tie.  Two separate patterns in one color is good, or opt for a solid square in just one color inspired by the tie.

Here are three ways to style a pocket square:

1) Ends out — more fabric showing the trendier.

2) Ends in (rounded border showing)

3) Folded and concise, small border (reserved for a classic and reserved look.)

•  An argyle pullover. Argyle is back! Really! But the vintage version must go. Look for a  fresh take on the V or crewneck pullover.  The most casual looks would be an argyle sweater layered over simple white crewneck tee and paired with jeans.  The same sweater looks great layered over shirts and paired with cotton twills and even slacks and sport coats.  Find a sweater that repeats his coloring.

• A messenger bag. For the casual business man, this is an update and functional replacement for tattered briefcases and backpacks. Well cushioned versions house everything from lap top computers plus all the extras.

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