No, it isn’t as easy as opening a can.

And no matter what recipe you follow, it never will have those distinctive ring marks. But making cranberry sauce from scratch this Thanksgiving requires minimal effort that is well rewarded.

Traditional fresh cranberry sauces are simple affairs. Toss a bag of fresh berries and equal parts water and sugar (usually 1 to 2 cups) in a saucepan. Bring to a boil and cook until the berries start to pop. Chill and enjoy.

For a gentle rethinking of that basic recipe, consider cranberry, apple and walnut conserve from Gourmet magazine. This recipe tames the tart cranberries with serious apple overtones, including a dash of Calvados (apple brandy).

Care to be wild? Try a raw cranberry relish from Real Simple magazine. This time oranges and raisins control the cranberries. Preparing the sauce to be eaten raw gives it a texture completely different from traditional recipes.

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Cranberry, Apple and Walnut Conserve

Gourmet magazine

Ingredients

1 1/2 cups water

3 cups turbinado sugar

3-inch cinnamon stick

1/4 tsp. allspice

Three 12-oz. bags fresh cranberries (about 2 1/2 lbs., or 11 cups)

3 Gala or Pink Lady apples

2 cups walnuts, toasted, cooled and broken into small pieces

2 Tbsp. Calvados or brandy

Directions

In a 4- to 5-quart heavy pot over moderate heat, simmer the water, sugar, cinnamon stick, allspice and half of the cranberries, stirring occasionally, until cranberries just start to pop, about 5 minutes.

Add half of the remaining cranberries and simmer, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes.

Meanwhile, peel and core the apples, then cut them into a 1/4-inch dice. Add to the pot, along with the walnuts and remaining cranberries. Simmer, stirring occasionally, 5 minutes. Stir in the Calvados and simmer 1 minute. Remove from the heat and cool to warm or room temperature. Discard the cinnamon stick.

Makes about 12 cups.

Raw Cranberry Relish

Real Simple magazine

Ingredients

2 navel oranges, washed and patted dry

1 cup dark or golden raisins

12-ounce bag fresh cranberries

1 Tbsp. orange liqueur

Directions

Peel one orange, discarding the peel. Leave the peel on the other orange. Cut both oranges into wedges.

Place the oranges and raisins in a food processor. Pulse until roughly chopped. Add the cranberries and pulse until finely chopped, but not pureed.

Transfer the relish to a serving bowl. Stir in the liqueur. Cover and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Makes 6 to 8 servings.