Each Tuesday The Register reviews an area restaurant, with an emphasis on establishments where a couple can dine for $30 or less.  Reader suggestions are welcomed.

Downtown Napa has abundant Mediterranean dining options, primarily Italian. For food from the eastern Mediterranean, there is Small World.

Small World may be downtown’s least pretentious restaurant, occupying a series of store fronts on Coombs Street that were once offices.

Over time, they have been interconnected, forming a cavern-like complex where customers can dine on falafels and gyros. While Small World bills itself as primarily Middle Eastern, it also sells corn dogs, burgers, tacos, French fries, onion rings and more.

Small World has a gritty urban quality that sets it apart from the rest of well-scrubbed, redeveloped downtown. People gather here who might not feel as welcomed at pricier establishments. The sidewalk tables are smoker friendly.

Besides filling stomachs, Small World promotes world peace. Flags of many countries adorn the beverage cases. A mural of mother earth greets customers.

Dining at Small World, a person somehow feels he is striking a blow for international brotherhood and the cessation of strife.

We arrived late in the lunch hour. The joint was humming. There was a small line at the front counter. Most of the tables, inside and out, were full.

Small World has all kinds of pita sandwiches in the $5 to $6 range, from mushroom and zucchini to turkey and hummus. Gyros, featuring lamb or beef, are $6.50. Tahini, Greek and Arabic salads are priced $8 to $9.

If one doesn’t want to go the Middle Eastern route, one can also order chicken sandwiches, quesadillas and Polish dogs. Small World aims to please.

As an all day cafe that stays open in the evening, Small World also sells smoothies, coffees and packaged pastries, ice cream and other snacks. Judging from the large display of single packs near the register, Small World also does a smashing cigarette business.

We placed our orders for a $5.75 falafel and an $8.25 tahini salad, then retreated deep into the restaurant. We selected drinks from the beverage case, then took a table. Everything is rung up and paid for upon departing.

The two dining areas are noteworthy for their old wood floors and subdued lighting. Tables share space with an ice cream freezer and beverage cases with soft drinks, juices and beer. Cases of beverages were stacked in corners. There was even a gumball machine.

To me, Small World felt relaxed and funky. My companion would have liked a brighter, less cluttered decor.

A continuous line of customers came and went with takeout, but our order took forever. A good 20 minutes, anyway.

The tahini salad featured a plate of lettuce topped with a lot of cucumber, tomato slices and crunchy spears of possibly jicama. The salad was topped with a mild, creamy white tahini dressing, with two pita halves on the side.

For $8.25, this was not a great salad, my companion said. She had expected more flavors, more ingredients. We considered the salad overpriced.

My falafel was a classic. The pita held four deep-fried croquettes of spiced chickpeas, a layer of hummus and a topping of lettuce, cukes and tomatoes. My order came with three plastic dispensers with ranch and tahini dressings and hot sauce.

To punch up the flavor, I used a lot of tahini dressing. I ended up with an unwieldy handful. My pita crumbled during the eating, which Small World must have anticipated. I had been given two napkins.

The falafel was a good value. So apparently are the gyros which some people rave about.

Small World is indeed small, but it fills an important niche in Napa’s culinary world. It’s unpretentious and  relaxed.

The location is 928 Coombs St., between First and Second.

Readers with tips about interesting places to eat should e-mail diningout@napanews.com