Blessing of the grapes

By SASHA PAULSEN, Register Features Editor

In wine regions around the world the blessing of the grapes is a long-standing tradition that signals harvest is underway. Always acknowledging that, especially at this critical point, it's a good idea to have higher powers working with you, the local priest -- or rabbi, minister or Tibetan monk -- comes into the vineyards to extend his blessing, creating as well a time for celebration.

Wednesday, at Robert Mondavi Winery, work ceased for a couple of hours when Father Gordon Kalil and Father Oscar Dias from St. John the Baptist Catholic church in Napa came into the historic To Kalon vineyard. They read a blessing from the Jewish tradition in Spanish and English before using olive branches to sprinkle holy water over sauvignon blanc grapes harvested that morning from the vineyard's "T-Block" section, planted in 1955.

A quiet Robert Mondavi and his spirited wife, Margrit, presided over the festivities at Oakville winery, the 40th since he founded the winery in 1966.

"Wine is the work of many hands," said Kalil.

Genevieve Janssens, director of winemaking, said these grapes would be used to make a fum blanc reserve, "the best of the best." She also paid tribute to Robert Mondavi, saying, "We not only have wonderful people, but we also have a true sense of origin in our To Kalon vineyard. And it is Robert Mondavi who created that sense of origin. Robert and Margrit, you are our inspiration and we will carry your vision forward."

Bob Thiesen, an employee at the winery, sang "How Great Thou Art" and led the audience in "America the Beautiful," after which the Mariachi Ortega led a parade of people to a grove of olive trees for a bountiful Mexican lunch.

Janssens said vintage 2006 is a late starter but promises high quality.

"The vintage is looking excellent," she said. "August has been cool, which is good for the development of perfumed aromas in our sauvignon blanc. There is a lot of natural balance in the vineyard for all of our varieties."

With the harvest of sauvignon blanc grapes nearly complete, she said, next week workers will begin picking chardonnay and pinot noir grapes.

"It is always wonderful to hear the wine story," said Margrit Mondavi. " We thank you all -- you are what allows Robert Mondavi Winery to give the world great wines. Now let's have a fiesta."

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