This month we will focus on jewelry: How to choose it , what to choose and why.

To begin, try this small exercise.

Pick up a copy of your favorite department store's catalog. Leaf through the pages and make note of how many ensembles have no accessories at all.

Get the message? Less can be more.

I am not saying to pass on accessories or jewelry by any means. They are an asset when done well. But when they are poorly done, they take away, distract and get in the way.

The two most important elements in choosing and applying fashion are color and line/design. Fashion's place is to enhance, not compete with beauty, so let's enhance your coloring and bone structure while finding just the right accessory choices. I encourage you not to buy into trends unless they do something for you.

Age-old myths

Have you heard the old rules: Square jaws means no square necklines or jewelry shapes; people who have narrow chins shouldn't wear v-necklines or v-shaped necklaces; round faces aren't flattered by round anything?

I have strong opinions about these age-old myths. When you combine opposites in shape and structure, amazing things happen, so throw those ideas out the window.

In general, however, large jewelry belongs on tall women with large bone structure. A small piece on a large person will make her look even larger.

Small jewelry belongs on petite women with small bone structure. A large piece on a small person will make her look even smaller.

An important exception: A woman of small stature whose demeanor and presence are so strong can wear large jewelry without being overpowered by it. She wears it well and will tell you she wears it well. It's her preference. A small piece would be lost on her.

Shape and size

When considering the shape of jewelry, you can apply the same concept as with dressing to slenderize:

* Round plus round equals round.

* Points plus corners slenderize.

* Round and corners equals balance.

Choose carefully. If your ensemble is structured with plenty of points and corners, a round necklace, medallion or round stones may add balance. On the other hand, if your ensemble is a soft cardigan with a round neckline paired with a round skirt, opt for a geometric look to your neckpiece.

What about length?

Long is at the top of today's fashion trend list, but short is not out, so fear not if you have a collection of short necklaces. Think about combining and layering them.

Women with well-endowed bustlines should stay away from long necklaces. They simply do not behave. They move around causing you to think about your necklace instead of the moment you are in.

All figures benefit from the Y necklace. The shape has slenderizing effects and can work under a suit jacket, paired with a summery tank top and capri pants or paired with an evening dress.

Color

There is nothing more classic than a stone that matches your eye color. Repeat the exact colors of your iris in a necklace. It may be one important-looking precious stone set or several stones set in silver or gold.

Stones in your lipshade flatter too. Dusty rose coral combined with stones in shades of brown, taupe, beige or black -- depending on the color of your hair -- can make an incredible necklace that will complement more outfits than you can imagine.

Golden blondes, redheads chestnut brunettes and dark brunettes with gold highlights, should opt for gold.

Ash blondes, dark brunettes (no highlights) and those with gray heads of hair should choose silver settings.

Blue eyes, blue-green eyes, gray eyes? Opt for silver.

Green eyes, green eyes with gold influence, brown eyes, amber eyes, brown to black eyes? Opt for gold.

Not to confuse you, but if you have golden blonde hair with blue eyes you can and should wear either gold or silver.

Blondes who are weaved may have gold highlights and ash low lights. Again you can do gold or silver.

In any one ensemble commit to all gold or all silver. Don't mix the elements or you will look like a Christmas tree.

The exception is a piece of jewelry that carries both silver and gold as part of the design.

Trends

Fashion is currently focused on the tribal influence. Remember those shells and beads from your island vacation? Tied with grosgrain ribbon, set in silver or gold meshed with earth tones, or sometimes with splashes of color, tribal is hot right now. Update last year's looks with these fun pieces. Buy a strand in your hair color or skin tone if you can find it. Do not invest many hard-earned dollars in this look. I give it 24 months, and it is history.

I welcome your questions and comments at anthea@tolomeiandassociates.com