Laughter and conversation drift through an open door in a Third Street building behind the First Presbyterian Church of Napa. Inside, people are seated at tables, steaming trays of food in front of them. Some of them are talking, some moving to music in headsets, some checking on babies in strollers. They are men and women, old, young, Caucasian, Hispanic and African-American. Many are dressed neatly and eat in quiet dignity, posture straight. Others have a harder time focusing on the task. All are grateful for the meal.

This is the Table. It operates five days a week, serving hot meals from 3 to 4:30 p.m., at no cost to the diners.

With the exception of one part-time dishwasher, volunteers do all the work -- cooking, serving and cleaning -- every day.

"The Table is truly a unique animal in the Bay Area," said Tom Webster, chair of the Table executive committee.

"Last year we served over 29,000 meals, recently as many as 150 to 200 meals a day. What's unique is that we don't have a paid cook, but groups from organizations actually make and serve the meals. We have about 22 faith-based groups, along with the Soroptomists, Realtors, Rotary, Queen of the Valley Hospital, the local chapter of American Association of University Women and others," Webster said.

It's a common misconception that all of the people needing a hot meal are homeless or have mental problems. While some have a long-term mental illness or are homeless, others are temporarily unemployed or under-employed, disabled or seniors on a fixed income. Seasonal laborers are another group helped by the Table.

"I suppose the most unexpected are the seniors," said Webster. "They come for the fellowship as well as a good meal. You'd be surprised at who comes here; they could be your neighbors or friends. We avoid the catch phrase 'unfortunate,' because these are people who simply have a need that we can meet. We prefer the concept of 'community serving community.'"

The Table celebrates its 20th anniversary this year.

"It was born out of the 1986 flood, at the First Presbyterian Church in a room off the kitchen," said Webster. "Congregation members would pick up a casserole dish, fill it and bring it back in to feed those who had been displaced by the flood."

There was still a need in the community after the flood damage had been repaired.

The program broadened to include religious and civic groups whose members volunteered to help. Each group reserves one day of the month; some groups serve 12 times a year, others four times a year.

First Presbyterian continues to house what became known as the Table and operates under the auspices of the church.

The Table is run by an executive committee made up of four members of the host institution, First Presbyterian, and three members of other groups that volunteer in the program. A Community Volunteer Board of representatives of all the volunteer groups advises the executive committee.

The volunteers vary in what they cook. Some stick to the same menu, such as spaghetti, others use food donated to the Food Bank or bring a portion of the meal and draw from the Table pantry. The groups try to offer balanced meals that includes hot food, vegetable or salad, coffee, milk and a dessert.

"Our clients understand there is a certain code of conduct that we expect, and they respect it," said Webster. "We don't hand out tracts or say grace before the meal. We're all about the community serving the community in need."

It takes a coordinator

First Presbyterian member Carolyn Spence has volunteered at the Table since its inception and is now the executive board coordinator.

"I keep track of all the groups and make sure the supplies are here for them," said Spence. "We supply milk, bread, dessert, oil, seasonings, napkins, paper towels and forks. I'm often the cook if the group is short a cook."

Spence oversees the kitchen operations and sees that the appliances are kept clean and running efficiently. She said raising six children gave her a good base for "cooking by the seat of your pants."

"If people want to donate food, they can drop it off," said Spence. "The gallon-sized cans of fruits, vegetables and tomatoes work best. We're always on the lookout for groups who want to volunteer, and we have spots on the fifth weeks of the month. We need about five to eight volunteers from a group, any more than that and we start tripping over each other. Anyone who likes to cook is welcome. We're asking that at least one member of each group attend a class on safe food handling."

The organizers try to make the dining room as pleasant as possible. Students from St. John's School draw pictures that are posted around the room.

"We ask no questions of our diners," said Spence. "People come in who need to eat and we feed them."

Volunteers make

a difference

Tessa DeCarlo can't remember exactly how long she's been a volunteer at the Table.

"My husband is a Realtor and he got involved and asked me to step in once when they were shorthanded," said DeCarlo, now on the executive board. "It's so satisfying, cooking on that scale for people who need it. Ever since I was a kid, I had a restaurant fantasy. I know I'm not good enough to cook on that level, and to run a restaurant is more than I want to take on. It was more the fantasy of hospitality. Cooking at the Table is a way of doing that; folks are appreciative of your efforts. They say something about the food or thank you. It's a human connection."

DeCarlo, a freelance writer, believes that some people are burned out about volunteering.

"Most of us who volunteer feel like we're spinning our wheels, going to meetings and writing checks. Here, the work is concrete. You make food, serve it, and they eat. It's immediate. The people who volunteer here are fanatics, they love it and it strikes deep."

Admitting she's one of those fanatics, DeCarlo recently relocated to El Cerrito, yet still commutes to Napa for her duties at the Table.

"I couldn't give it up. It's a great group of people on my once a month shift and the executive committee. That's one thing about Napa, there's a strong volunteer spirit and many people make long-term commitments. The Table is fun and satisfying and the whole thing is magical that it's in Napa."

Hard financial times

"We've gotten financial support from a bequest and the Gasser Foundation has been very generous in donating major items such as a refrigerator and convection ovens," said Webster. "But expenses continue to rise. For the first time in our 20 year history, operating expenses exceed gifts we've received."

The group is hoping to raise $40,000 to cover costs for utilities, basic supplies, janitorial, dishwashing services and other overhead costs.

"Gifts from the Napa County Realtors and the St. Vincent de Paul Society of St. John the Baptist Catholic Church allowed expanded milk service," said Webster.

"However, the Table needs help to meet all the costs of maintaining its cooking and dining facilities. Our forecasted inflow of donations in 2006 will cover about a quarter of our projected operating expenses of approximately $40,000 and we're asking the community to help us make up the difference," Webster said.

"If additional funding does not become available, the shortfall will have to come from our small 'rainy day' fund," said Webster. "We want to reserve that money as the first installment on future expansion of our facilities, so we are asking the community's help."

Donations to the Table are tax deductible and are used only for the Table program in Napa. Contributions can be sent to the First Presbyterian Church, where there is separate accounting for the Table.

"The Table is worthwhile," said Webster. "I've invested in the program and get tremendous personal satisfaction from it. There's pleasure in being part of solving the problem of a daily meal, one meal at a time."

Donations may be sent to the Table, c/o First Presbyterian Church, 1333 Third Avenue, Napa CA 94559. For more information about donating to the Table or volunteering, call 224-8693.