Anthea Tolomei

When you wear colors that complement your own coloring, you look younger and imperfections recede. You can do more with less -- a handful of wardrobe pieces that make many ensembles. As color becomes a guide to future wardrobe purchases, you'll make fewer purchasing mistakes and in the long run save money. Most of all, you'll look better than ever.

We're going to find your "first-string" colors, colors that mirror you and showcase your features. It comes down to this: Exciting personalized color is the repetition of all that is good and the exclusion of what is not.

Past fads trying to help readers discover their best colors have tried to reduce everyone to a type, or season. You are not a season. You are far more individual than that. You are as specific as a thumbprint -- you are, in fact, your own road map.

First-string colors

To find your first-string colors this you will need a pen and note pad, a mirror and natural light. Don't wear makeup for this exercise.

* Hair. Most heads of hair have two to four main colors, either because of a hair colorist-induced weave or natural sun-kissed strands. Going from the darkest to the lightest strands, label what you see in your own color lingo. For example, a golden blonde might have deep brown as the darkest strands, going all the way to the beige, with gold, red brown and taupe brown in between. Chestnut brunettes may find strands of deep brown, copper and orange, while a gray head may contain black, white, gray, pewter and silver.

* Eye color. Look at the rim of the iris, the interior and, using your imagination, the iris lit from behind. That's right -- imagine a flashlight behind the iris. What do you see? It is a pastel, animated color. Eye color changes with what you are wearing, so really study and look for colors that can easily be missed. Write down what you see in your own color lingo.

Your notes could look something like this:

Blue eyes (with some green): Rim: sometimes deep green, gray, teal, midnight blue. Iris: sky blue, teal blue, seafoam green, charcoal gray, white, yellow. Lit from behind: pastel blue, pastel green, pastel yellow green.

* Skin tones. Your complexion in general has two tones. They are beige, your skin's undertones, and pink, what we see when we see when you have finished the 50 yard dash.

* Lips. What's your natural color? The color of naked lips is on everyone's palette: his, hers, black, Asian, Latino, Irish, German, Italian.

If your hair color has changed, your favorite lip shade should change too.

* Smile color. Even your teeth have low, medium and highlights, all various versions of white. It's important when choosing white, to match your smile. Your smile may not be your best feature. If so skip white, and opt for another form of neutral. Focus on another feature.

Step two

Now list the colors found in your hair and eyes in two categories: neutrals and brights. Neutrals are brown, beige, deep blue, gray, black, white, taupe etc. Brights are sky blues, teals, yellows, greens, dusty roses, pinks, corals, etc. Pair neutrals with brights for exciting color combinations.

Let's take as an example, a woman with chestnut brown hair and blue eyes. Deep brown or beige from the neutral chapter pairs with the sky blue or dusty rose and burgundy (her favorite lipstick color).

In general, dark hair, complexions and eyes benefit from rich darker color combinations, while fair hair, complexions and eyes work with lighter color combinations.

An important note for a palette with black hair and black or deep brown eyes: Your most important neutral is black, which is inspired by hair and eyes. Say yes to rich beiges inspired by skin. Skin tones will wash everyone out when worn solo, so imagine beige next to black. But neither are complete in an outfit without a deep rich color for contrast. Welcome reds inspired by your lips in a natural state , borrow your favorite red from the make-up bag. If a color looks good on your lips it will look fantastic in a top, scarf or necklace. A timeless wardrobe must have a necklace featuring stones repeating the eye's colors as well.

If you have maintained a beautiful smile over time do not forget to bring white to this picture. Black, beige, red, white. These four colors offer color combinations that are sure to enhance.

There are abundant bright color choices for people with this palette. Neutrals welcome these exciting contrasts. The best choices are going to be rich because your coloring is rich -- reds, blues, purples, greens -- go for jewel tones. Sherbet pastels look best when framed with black.

Other color facts

In choosing clothes, repeat elements as well as your coloring. Do you have shiny hair? Wear shiny fabrics. If, however, you have a shiny, oily complexion, you'll want to avoid these fabrics. If you have blemishes or scars you'll want to avoid tweeds and bumpy fabrics. Have freckles? Animal prints in auburn copper colors are going to look great on you.

Repeat all the exciting and flattering aspects about you. Let color showcase your beauty. You all have it! Isn't it time to do something with it!

Next month we will visit low-fat dressing and learn six slenderizing concepts that will change the way you choose fashion forever.

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Questions? We want to hear from you. Find me at anthea@tolomeiandassociates.com.