HYDE PARK, N.Y. -- The old adage suggests that the quickest way to someone's heart is through the stomach -- and at no other time is this more relevant than during Valentine's Day.

Whether you believe in foods' seductive powers or not, aphrodisiacs have long been considered a part of Cupid's romantic strategy. From coffee and chocolate to honey and strawberries, many everyday foods are thought to possess aphrodisiacal qualities.

Oysters, however, have the reputation of being the ultimate passion-inducing food. So -- a grand centerpiece for a delicious and romantic meal this Valentine's Day would be The Culinary Institute of America's famous oyster stew.

However the oyster is served, savored raw on the half shell or hidden beneath a stuffing of spinach, butter, bread crumbs and seasonings in the classic oysters Rockefeller, this shellfish brings an element of mystique to any meal.

Oyster stew can be a rich starter or main entree and it's perfect for the often chilly month of February. Made with plump oysters and garnished with crisp bacon, the creamy stew stimulates the senses and ignites the appetite.

What's more, it goes from soup pot to bowl in less than an hour, keeping you out of the kitchen and closer to the one you love.

Whether you plan to savor oysters raw or want them as flavorful as possible for cooking, buy them freshly shucked or purchase them live and shuck them yourself. Freshly shucked oysters save time and are less of a hassle to prepare, but live oysters offer the freshest taste.

If you opt to shuck them yourself, take your time and wear a thick glove or place a folded cloth in your non-cutting hand for protection. It is also a good idea to use an oyster knife or other flat, dull knife when opening the shell and detaching the oyster.

To open an oyster shell, pry apart the hinge that holds its upper and lower shells together. Chef William Phillips, associate professor in culinary arts at The Culinary Institute of America, suggests the following method for opening an oyster:

Hold the oyster with its hinged side facing your cutting hand. Work the tip of the knife into the hinge and twist, turning the knife like a key in a lock, to break open the hinge. Once the shell is open, carefully slide the knife along the inside surface of the top shell to detach the oyster.

It is best to do this work over a bowl to catch the flavorful juices, also known as oyster "liquor," that may be trapped inside the shellfish. Remove and discard the top shell. Sliding the knife carefully underneath the oyster, release it from its bottom shell.

The following recipe, along with more than 100 others, is featured in The Culinary Institute of America's "Book of Soups (Lebhar-Friedman, 2001, $35.00).

Oyster Stew

24 fresh oysters, shucked, juices reserved

4 bacon slices, minced

1 onion, minced (about 1 1/4 cups)

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

1 1/2 quarts milk

1 bay leaf

1 cup heavy cream, heated

1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper, or to taste

Oyster crackers (optional)

Drain the oysters in a colander over a bowl. Reserve the juice.

Heat a soup pot over medium heat. Add the bacon and cook until crisp, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the bacon to a paper towel-lined plate.

Add the onion to the bacon fat and cook until translucent, about 6 minutes. Do not brown. Reduce the heat to low, add the flour, and cook 3 to 4 minutes, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon.

Add the milk and reserved oyster juice in batches, using a whisk to work out any lumps between each addition. Add the bay leaf and simmer, 20 minutes, skimming as necessary. Add the whole oysters and continue to simmer until the oysters are barely cooked, about 5 minutes. Remove from heat.

Add the hot cream and season with salt and pepper. Serve in heated bowls, garnished with the reserved bacon and oyster crackers, if desired.

Makes 8 servings.

Nutrition information per 17-ounce serving (without crackers): 470 cal., 26 g pro., 24 g carbo., 29 g fat, 860 mg sodium, 205 mg chol., less than 1 g fiber.

(Recipe from The Culinary Institute of America's "Book of Soups (Lebhar-Friedman, 2001, $35.00), available at bookstores nationwide or at:

http://www.ciachef.edu/enthusiasts/cookbooks/