WILTON, Conn. -- It seems like it was just yesterday, but here we go again. This is that mouthwatering time of the year when the holidays line up, and the urge to bake grabs hold.

The call may be for just one dessert, or perhaps for a whole party piece to be assembled, a cookie-brownie-cupcake platter, or for sweet gifts. Then there are always the birthday parties and other baking occasions that arrive in any season.

So, here's a report from the dessert cookbook front, a few favorite recipes gleaned from browsing through and testing from recent publications.

Baking is much more precise than other cooking and more scientific, which can give some cooks pause. For those who approach baking with some trepidation, several of the baking all-stars have written books this year that carefully describe each step of the way.

So, some of the following recipes may appear long, but that's because they are VERY thorough in their descriptions -- the advantage being it's almost as if you have the pro in the kitchen with you.

Here are three books from which I worked very happily:

* Judith Sutton's book, "Sweet Gratitude: Bake a Thank-You" (Artisan, 2005, $19.95) is based on recipes she has baked to thank people. She says this practice started with the cookies and other treats she made for her veterinarian at a period when she and her cat were making frequent visits to the "Cat Doctor's" office.

"Head to the kitchen, not the mall," she advises, when you are looking for a special thank-you. Her recipe for Devil's Food Cupcakes includes a choice of two frostings, and a regular-size cake variation; her helpful tip on decorating a birthday cake using cookie cutters is one you may find yourself using again and again.

* The award-winning cookbook author Nancy Baggett has a hefty new tome, "The All-American Dessert Book" (Houghton-Mifflin, 2005, $35). It's packed full of definitive recipes for dessert favorites, including a great recipe for brownies, to enjoy as is or with a glaze or frosting. Pay close attention to her test for doneness: Brownies are much better if they are not overbaked and she tells you how to judge precisely.

* Another award-winning author and chocolate expert, Alice Medrich, offers delicious chocolate ideas for every occasion in her book, "Chocolate Holidays: Unforgettable Desserts for Every Season" (Artisan, 2005, $21.95 paperback). This is a revised edition of her out-of-print 2001 hardcover "A Year in Chocolate: Four Seasons of Unforgettable Desserts" (Warner)."

Devil's Food Cupcakes

Ingredients

1 3/4 cups unbleached all-purpose flour

1/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted

1 1/2 teaspoons baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

10 tablespoons (1 1/4 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature

1 cup granulated sugar

1/2 cup packed light brown sugar

2 large eggs

1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

1 and 1/3 cups buttermilk

For the Chocolate Frosting:

4 ounces semisweet, bittersweet, or milk chocolate, coarsely chopped

8 tablespoons (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature

2 1/2 cups confectioners' sugar

4 to 6 tablespoons whole milk

1 1/2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract

Directions

Put a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 F. Line 22 muffin cups with foil or paper-cupcake liners.

Whisk together the flour, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt in a medium bowl. In a large bowl, beat the butter and sugars with a mixer on medium speed until light and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Scrape down the sides of the bowl. Add the eggs, one at a time, beating well after each addition. Beat in the vanilla. On low speed, beat in the flour in three additions, alternating with the buttermilk in two additions and beating just until incorporated.

Spoon the batter into the muffin cups, filling each one about two-thirds full. Bake for 16 to 18 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted in the center of a cupcake comes out clean. Let the cupcakes cool in the pans for 10 minutes, then carefully transfer them to a wire rack to cool completely. (The cupcakes can be baked up to one day ahead and stored in an airtight container at room temperature.)

To make the Chocolate Frosting: Melt the chocolate in a metal bowl set over a saucepan of hot, not simmering water (or melt in the top of a double boiler), stirring until smooth. Remove the pan from the heat and let cool.

In a large bowl, beat the butter until creamy, about 30 seconds. Gradually beat in 1 cup of the confectioners' sugar. Beat in 1/4 cup of the milk and the vanilla. Beat in the chocolate. Gradually beat in the remaining 1 1/2 cups confectioners' sugar and continue to beat until the frosting reaches a spreadable consistency, adding up to 2 tablespoons more milk if necessary.

Spread the frosting generously over the cupcakes. Or transfer the frosting to a pastry bag fitted with a large star tip and pipe a generous swirl of frosting onto each cupcake. (The frosted cupcakes can be stored in an airtight container for up to 2 days.)

Makes 22 cupcakes.

Variation:

Fluffy White Frosting

Omit the chocolate in the Chocolate Frosting. Reduce the milk to 3 to 5 tablespoons and the vanilla to 1 teaspoon. Proceed as directed.

When a friend of the author's was super-busy, Sutton came to her rescue and used this cupcake recipe to make a square birthday cake for the class.

Matthew's Birthday Cake

Prepare the batter as directed and scrape it into two buttered and floured 8-inch square cake pans. Bake for 30 to 35 minutes. Cool the cakes in the pans on a wire rack for 10 minutes; invert the cakes onto another rack, invert them again onto the first rack, and let cool completely. Make a double recipe of the Fluffy White Frosting; spread frosting over one cake, place the other cake on top, then frost top and sides of the two-layer cake.

An easy way to decorate a child's cake is to use assorted cookie cutters -- dinosaurs are good -- to make imprints in the frosting around the sides and top of the cake, pressing gently to make an impression. Then outline the shapes using colored decorating gels from the supermarket. Use the same gels to handwrite any special greetings or the name of the recipient on top.

(Recipes from "Sweet Gratitude: Bake a Thank-You" by Judith Sutton, Artisan, 2005, $19.95)

Fudge Brownies

Ingredients

1 3/4 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 teaspoon salt

16 tablespoons (2 sticks) unsalted butter, cut into chunks

2 cups sugar

1/4 cup brewed coffee or water

11 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate, broken up or coarsely chopped

2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, broken up or coarsely chopped

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

4 large eggs

2 cups chopped walnuts (optional)

Fudge Glaze or Rich and Creamy Chocolate Fudge Frosting (recipes follow, optional)

Directions

Position a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350 F. If you are not adding the fudge glaze or frosting, line a 9-by-13-inch baking pan with aluminum foil, allowing the foil to overhang the two sides of the pan by 2 inches. Coat the foil with nonstick spray (or use nonstick foil). If adding a topping, omit the foil lining and grease the pan or coat with nonstick spray.

In a medium bowl, thoroughly stir together the flour and salt; set aside. In a large saucepan, bring the butter, sugar and coffee just to a boil over medium-high heat, stirring. Remove from the heat. Stir the chocolates into the sugar mixture until completely melted. Let cool to warm (if the mixture is hot, the eggs may curdle when added). Stir the vanilla into the chocolate mixture, then add the eggs and mix thoroughly. Stir the dry ingredients into the chocolate mixture just until the batter is evenly blended. Stir in the nuts, if using. Turn out the batter into the pan, spreading it evenly to the edges.

Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, or until the center is barely firm when tapped and a toothpick inserted in the center comes out clean except for the bottom 1/8-inch which should have wet crumbs clinging to it. Transfer the pan to a wire rack. Let cool to warm, about 20 minutes.

Makes 32 2 1/4-by-2 1/4-inch brownies.

Cook's tip: For these brownies, the baking time depends greatly on the pan used, so check frequently for signs of doneness. In a dull metal pan that absorbs and holds heat readily, the brownies bake through in only about 20 minutes. In a glass or shiny metal pan, they make take 5 to 10 minutes longer.

To glaze or frost the brownies: Pour the fudge frosting or glaze over the brownie surface and immediately spread out with a long-bladed offset spatula to even the surface. Let cool completely, at least 1 hour. The glazed brownie slab can be frozen for up to one month. Uncover and partially thaw before cutting into bars.

Using a large sharp knife wiped clean between cuts, cut the brownies into 2 and 1/8-by-2 1/4-inch bars (or as desired). Serve them directly from the pan or transfer to a serving plate using a wide spatula.

To cut plain brownies: To prepare brownies for cutting, cover and refrigerate until well chilled and firm, at least 30 minutes. Using the overhanging foil as handles, carefully transfer the brownie slab to a cutting board. If desired, trim away the uneven edges using a large sharp knife. Cut the slab in half crosswise, cutting through the foil. Carefully peel off and discard the foil.

The slabs will keep, stored airtight, in the freezer for up to 1 month. Let thaw partially before cutting into bars. Cut the brownies into 2 and 1/8-by-2 1/4-inch bars (or as desired), wiping the knife clean between cuts.

The glazed or plain brownies will keep, stored airtight, at room temperature for 2 to 3 days.

Fudge Glaze

Ingredients

1 cup heavy (whipping) cream

1 cup sugar

3 tablespoons light corn syrup

2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into chunks

1/8 teaspoon salt

4 1/2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, broken up or coarsely chopped

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Hot water, if needed

Directions

In a heavy 2 1/2- to 3-quart saucepan, combine the cream, sugar, corn syrup, butter and salt. Bring just to a full boil over medium-high heat, stirring with a long-handled wooden spoon. Immediately cover the pot with a tight-fitting lid and boil for 2 minutes to allow steam to wash the sugar crystals (which might cause graininess) from the pan sides. Meanwhile, completely wash any sugar from the spoon.

Remove the lid and reduce the heat to medium. If any sugar remains, wash down the pan sides using a pastry brush dipped in warm water or a damp paper towel. If using a candy thermometer to gauge doneness, immediately clip it to the pan, with the tip fully submerged but not touching the pan bottom. Gently boil, stirring and occasionally scraping the pan bottom until the mixture reaches 227 to 228 F; this usually takes only 1 to 1 1/2 minutes. Remove from the heat. (If no candy thermometer is available, cook, stirring gently, for 1 minute. Immediately test for doneness by removing the pan from the heat and dropping a bit of the mixture into ice water. Let the mixture stand for about 15 seconds then press a bit between your fingertips. If the mixture clings together in a soft mass and is sticky, it is done. If it is runny and disperses in the water, cook for 20 to 30 seconds longer and test in the water again. Continue cooking and testing until the right consistency is obtained.)

Gently stir the chocolate, then the vanilla, into the mixture just until the chocolate melts and the glaze is completely smooth. If it looks separated and oily (suggesting overcooking), vigorously and thoroughly stir in hot water a teaspoon at a time until the glaze smooths out and looks glossy. Set aside for 2 to 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the glaze thickens and cools slightly. If the glaze seems too thick to flow and spread easily, thin it with a little more hot water a teaspoon at a time until a pourable and spreadable consistency is obtained. If it is too thin and runny to spread, let cool for a few minutes longer so it can stiffen further.

If glazing a 9-by-13-inch cake or a large pan of brownies, pour the glaze over the cooled top and use an offset spatula or table knife to spread evenly with a minimum of strokes. If glazing a cake, follow the directions in the specific cake recipe. Let the brownie or cake stand, covered, at room temperature for at least 30 minutes and preferably 1 hour before serving.

Makes enough for a pan of brownies or a 9-by-13-inch cake.

Rich and Creamy Chocolate Fudge Frosting

Ingredients

2/3 cup heavy (whipping) cream

2/3 cup granulated sugar

1 tablespoon unsalted butter, cut into chunks

1 1/2 tablespoons light or dark corn syrup

1 teaspoon vanilla extract, combined with 1 1/2 tablespoons water

8 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate, broken up or coarsely chopped

2 1/2 ounces unsweetened chocolate, broken up or coarsely chopped

11 ounces (one 8-ounce package plus one 3-ounce package) cream cheese, slightly softened and cut into chunks

2 to 2 1/2 cups powdered sugar, sifted after measuring if lumpy

1 to 2 teaspoons water, if needed

Directions

In a heavy 2-quart saucepan, bring the cream, granulated sugar, butter and corn syrup just to a full boil over medium-high heat, stirring. Wash any sugar from the pan sides using a pastry brush dipped in warm water or a damp paper towel. Also wash any sugar from the stirring spoon. Boil briskly, stirring frequently, for 3 minutes. Remove from the heat. Stir in the vanilla mixture and the chocolates until they completely melt. (It's all right if the mixture looks slightly separated.)

Transfer the mixture to a large bowl. With mixer on low speed, beat in the cream cheese a few chunks at a time. Continue beating until well blended, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Beat in 2 cups powdered sugar, scraping down the sides of the bowl as needed. Raise the speed to medium-low and beat until the mixture is completely smooth, 1 to 2 minutes; it should be cool to the touch. If the frosting is too thin to spread, beat in up to 1/2 cup more powdered sugar until smoothly incorporated. Let stand to firm up, 5 to 10 minutes. If the frosting is very stiff, add a teaspoon or two of water to thin it to a spreadable but still firm consistency.

Frost the cooled brownies immediately. Let the brownies stand until the frosting sets, at least 1 hour.

Makes enough to generously cover a pan of brownies, a 9-by-13-inch cake, a 9-inch 2-layer cake or an 8 1/2-inch 3-layer cake.

(Recipes from "The All-American Dessert Book" by Nancy Baggett, Houghton-Mifflin, 2005, $35)

Chocolate Cranberry Bread Pudding

Ingredients

1 loaf (16 ounces) challah or brioche

8 tablespoons (1 stick) melted unsalted butter

2 cups fresh or dried cranberries

1 and 2/3 cups milk

1 cup heavy cream

Scant cup sugar

14 ounces bittersweet or semisweet chocolate, chopped (see note)

7 eggs

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Lightly sweetened whipped cream or creme fraiche (optional)

Directions

Position the rack in the lower third of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350 F.

Tear the loaf into large shreds, about 2-by- 3/4-inches. To do this, pinch a piece of the bread at the top of the loaf and start pulling. If the loaf is sliced, tear the slices. Spread the shreds on a large baking sheet and bake until lightly toasted, about 5 minutes. Remove from the oven and immediately drizzle melted butter over the bread. Toss lightly to distribute the butter. Cover the bottom of the pan or pans with half of the bread. Sprinkle all the cranberries over this bread. Top with the remaining bread. Set aside.

In a heavy saucepan, heat the milk, cream and sugar to a simmer. Off heat, add the chocolate and stir until melted and smooth. In a medium bowl, whisk the eggs and vanilla. Add the chocolate mixture to the eggs and stir until well blended. Pour the mixture over the bread, making sure the top layer of bread is completely moistened. Cover the pan loosely with a piece of foil.

Bake for 15 minutes. Remove the foil and bake 15 minutes more, or until the pudding bubbles vigorously around the edges although the center is still very liquid if the pan is jiggled. Remove the pudding from the oven (it will continue to thicken) and cool on a rack. Serve warm, at room temperature, or cold, plain or with a dab of whipped cream or creme fraiche.

Makes 12 to 14 servings.

Note: You can use any domestic bittersweet or semisweet chocolate without a percentage on the label, or any boutique or imported brand marked 50 to 62 percent. Or, substitute 10 ounces chocolate marked 66 to 72 percent and increase sugar by 2 tablespoons.

(Recipe from "Chocolate Holidays: Unforgettable Desserts for Every Season" by Alice Medrich, Artisan, 2005, $21.95 paperback)