Chef Chris Manning moves to head chef at The Restaurant at Domaine Chandon

By L. PIERCE CARSON, Register Staff Writer

When Chris Manning was 10 years old, a dining experience put him on a path leading to some of the best commercial kitchens in the United States.

A native of Kalispell, Mont., Manning was invited by a good friend and his family to join in an evening of theater at the Big Fork Summer Playhouse.

Today, Manning can't tell you what he saw that night. But he knows what he had to eat before the curtain went up.

A defining moment in his formative years, that meal included the elementary schooler's first taste of escargot. He's not sure if the light bulb went on when he was chewing on one of the broiled mollusks or when he was dipping bread into the accompanying garlic butter.

Nevertheless, that experience fueled what would become a passion for cooking. At this early age, Manning began creating dishes for his family as an after-school hobby.

Growing up in Big Sky country provided Manning with ample opportunity to engage in fly fishing and big game hunting. It wasn't long before he was figuring out ways to serve family and friends what the hunting party brought home.

Throughout high school, Manning got lots of hands-on practical experience working in the kitchen of the Montana Grill, a favorite dining spot of locals. His Montana work experience also included a stint at Quincy's at Marina Cay, where he would eventually earn the title of sous chef.

Long before he thought about coming to the Napa Valley, Manning realized he'd need some formal culinary training in order to earn a noteworthy place in the hospitality industry. So, he enrolled at the California Culinary Academy in San Francisco where he earned a professional degree in 2000. His first West Coast post was with the culinary team at San Francisco's Campton Place Hotel, under the tutelage of executive chef Laurent Manrique.

A growing interest in wine resulted in Manning being invited to join the staff of The Restaurant at Domaine Chandon in 2001, where then-chef Robert Curry quickly recognized Manning's culinary savvy.

To further hone his skills, Manning was invited earlier this year to study with chefs Pascal Tinguad and Bernard Dance at Domaine Chandon's celebrated hospitality center, Petite Trianon, in Epernay, France. While he was there, Manning spent considerable time visiting some of the Michelin-starred restaurants in northern Europe.

Manning succeeded chef Ron Boyd at Domaine Chandon in late August. Noting that his culinary inspiration incorporates a worldwide perspective, he admits that the restaurant menu would best be described as one showcasing California cuisine with a French accent.

"Naturally, I incorporate many fresh and seasonal California ingredients and apply a strong sense of French technique," Manning says. "But I like to incorporate subtle flavors that surprise and excite the palate and that create extraordinary wine and food pairings."

A newlywed, Manning and his wife, Chelsea, reside in Napa. The chef notes that his wife is wrapping up her nutrition/dietician studies at present, with the goal of working with pregnant women. They met while both were enrolled at the California Culinary Academy. While she continues her studies, Chelsea Manning is working as a hostess at The Restaurant at Domaine Chandon.

Chef Manning has provided Register readers with three of his recipes today. While the recipes might seem detailed, he notes that the home cook could leave out one or more of the accompanying items in each recipe, such as the ricotta gnocchi included with the sole, or the lentils with the duck. In addition, rather than make your own gnocchi, Manning notes that some tasty commercial packaged gnocchi can be purchased at Genova Deli, Vallerga's and Dean & DeLuca.

And, Manning points out, several of the dishes allow for parts of the meal to be made ahead of time and then assembled when the protein part of the meal is prepared.

Seared Duck Breast with Lentils, White Asparagus, and

Turnip Puree

Chris Manning, executive chef, Domaine Chandon

I serve this dish at The Restaurant with a mountain huckleberry sauce. You can also prepare a sauce with blueberries, but the dish is fine without a sauce.

Ingredients:

2 whole duck breasts

Turnip Puree:

1/4 cup turnips, quarter inch dice, pealed

1/4 cup heavy cream, approximately

1 Tbsp. sweet butter

Lentils:

1 cup green lentils

2 cups Vegetable stock

1/2 carrot, peeled

1 ounce bacon

1/2 onion

5 springs thyme, wrapped in cheese cloth

2 Tbsp. butter

2 tsp. chives, chopped fine

Asparagus:

6 spears white asparagus, peeled

1 tangelo, zest and juice

1 Tbsp. sweet butter

Finishing Salt (gray or granular sea)

Preparation:

Duck Breast

For preparing the duck breast, cut in half along natural separation and score skin in a crisscross method, making sure to not cut all the way through.

Turnips

For the turnip puree, take the diced turnips and cover with cream, the butter and a pinch of salt in a heavy bottomed sauce pot. Cook over low heat until turnips are soft then place into blender and blend until smooth.

When smooth adjust seasoning with salt and pepper and pass through fine sieve. Place into a deli container and keep in a warm water bath.

Lentils

To prepare the lentils, take a heavy bottomed sauce pot over low heat and add the bacon, onion, and carrot.

Render out the bacon for about ten minutes, and then add the lentils. Cover the lentils with vegetable stock, add the thyme and cook over low heat until tender. Once tender, season with salt and pepper, add chives and stir in butter. Cover and set in a warm place.

Asparagus

The asparagus is to be cut on a bias into one inch pieces. Once cut add them with the tangelo juice and tangelo zest to a heavy bottomed sauce pot and bring to a simmer. Season with salt and pepper and remove. Cover and set in warm place.

Procedures:

Preheat a conventional oven to 375 degrees. Let the duck breasts temper at room temperature for about fifteen to twenty minutes.

Bring the two eight inch saut pans to a low heat. Season the duck breasts with salt and pepper, and place into the saut pans skin side down with no oil in the pan.

As the fat is released from the pan remove it, what you are doing is rendering the skin to remove the fat and make crisp. When a light golden color is reached, transfer the saut pans into the oven and cook until duck reaches an internal temperature of 130 degrees, about seven to ten minutes.

Once the duck is cooked, place skin side up on paper towels in a warm place and let rest for 5 minutes, this will help them from bleeding out the juices when you slice for plating.

Plating:

Place four plates in oven for one minute to remove any chill.

Slice the duck breast halves into thin slices and place on a paper towel.

Next, take the turnip puree and dollop in the center of each plate, take a spoon and pull the puree towards the edge of the plate at four and ten o'clock. Place the lentils in the center or the puree and the strained asparagus on top of the lentils.

The duck breast is then fanned over the top. Garnish with daikon sprouts and finishing salt.

Yield: 4 servings

Wine pairing suggestion: Domaine Chandon Reserve Pinot Noir Ros or Domaine Chandon Carneros Pinot Noir

Petrale Sole with Ricotta Gnocchi, Bok Choy and Lemon Beurre Blanc

Chris Manning, executive chef, Domaine Chandon

Ingredients:

20 ounces petrale sole

Ricotta Gnocchi:

1 cup ricotta cheese

1 Tbsp. Parmesan cheese

All purpose flour, as needed

1 egg, whipped

12 leaves bok choy

Lemon Beurre Blanc:

3 ounces sweet butter, cut into 1-inch squares

1/4 bottle Domaine Chandon Brut Classic

1/4 bottle Domaine Chandon Chardonnay

1/2 cup shallots, peeled and chopped

1 bay leaf, snapped in half

1 tsp. black peppercorns

2 lemons, juiced and zested

2 springs thyme

1 ounce heavy cream

Chive Oil:

1 ounce grapeseed oil

2 bunches chives

1 ounce grapeseed oil

9 cherry or pear tomatoes, cut in half

Salt and pepper, to taste

1/4 tsp. finishing salt (gray or granular sea)

12 chive or garlic flowers (optional)

Preparation:

Sole

You will need 4 bamboo skewers, each about 5 inches long, for this dish. The skewers have to fit inside a saut pan.

For the sole, make 4 even piles of cut pieces, about 5 ounces each. Place fillets flat side up and stack on top of each other in a long line. Then take the 4 lines and roll into balls. Place skewer through middle to secure, and refrigerate.

Ricotta Gnocchi

For the ricotta gnocchi, take one cup of riccota cheese and place on a dry floured surface. Knead in the Parmesan, egg and just enough flour to make dough dry to the touch. Let rest for 20 minutes and roll out into 3/4 inch diameter ropes.

Cut the ropes into 1-inch pieces then roll pieces into balls with floured hands. Next, using either a gnocchi board or a fork, and in a two step method; one is flattening the ball on the fork or board, and second rolling the gnocchi off the board or fork onto a floured tray.

Bok Choy

To prepare the bok choy, break the leaves off at the base, and then cut off the bottom to make the stems even. Cut the leaves in half lengthwise.

Beurre Blanc

For the beurre blanc (simple method for home use), first let the butter come to room temperature.

Next take Domaine Chandon Brut Classic combined with Domaine Chandon Carneros Chardonnay and reduce at a slow simmer with shallots, bay leaf, peppercorns, lemon and thyme until only a little liquid remains.

Then add the cream and bring back to a simmer. Finally, strain all the liquid through a fine sieve into blender and while mixture is still hot, over a medium speed, add the butter one piece at a time, until mixture is emulsified. Season with salt, and pour into a plastic deli container, cover and set in a warm (not hot, not cold) place.

Chive Oil

To make the chive oil, chop the chives and combine them with pinch of salt and grapeseed oil in the blender, blend until smooth, and strain through a coffee filter.

Procedures:

Pre-heat a conventional oven to 420 degrees.

Bring a sauce pot filled with water to a boil and add salt, enough so you can taste it

Next, bring the fish out and let them temper at room temperature for 15-20 minutes.

Bring a 10-inch saut pan to medium high heat and add about two tablespoons of grapeseed oil. When oil is hot, season the fish with salt and pepper and place in saut pan. Fish should not stick, slide pan to make sure (if fish does stick do not try to release, it will release itself when its ready).

Reduce heat to medium and cook on the stove top until you start to see a little golden color on the pan edge of the fish, then place in the oven for six to seven minutes. When fish is done, (double check by removing skewer and feeling skweer with your lip, it should be quite warm) remove from pan and place on paper towel to remove excess oil.

While the fish is in the oven, cook the gnocchi in the boiling water until it floats, remove and place in a bowl with a paper towel to dry off. Bring an eight-inch saut pan to medium high heat and add one tablespoon of grapeseed oil.

Once the oil is hot, add the gnocchi and saut until golden brown. Then add the bok choy and halved tomatoes, season with salt and pepper, and place on a paper towel to absorb extra oil.

Plating:

Place four plates in oven for one minute to remove any chill. Divide beurre blanc on center of each of four plates, then the gnocchi and vegetables. Place the fish on top of the vegetables and garnish with chive blossoms, finishing salt and chive oil.

Yield: 4 servings

Wine pairing suggestion: toile Brut, or Domaine Chandon Carneros Chardonnay

Pork Chop with Leeks, Black Trumpet Mushrooms and English Peas

Chris Manning, executive chef, Domaine Chandon

Ingredients:

Pork Jus

1 cup apple juice

1/2 pound pork bones, roasted

1 Granny Smith apple, diced

1 Asian pear, diced

1 carrot, diced

1 onion, diced

1 leek, white only, diced

1 garlic head

1 cup Domaine Chandon Chardonnay

1 cup Domaine Chandon Reserve Brut

2 cups pork stock, reduced by half (veal or chicken stock can be substituted)

1 tsp. black peppercorns

2 juniper berries

Mushrooms

1 cup black trumpet mushrooms

1 Tbsp. grapeseed oil

1 tsp. shallots

2 Tbsp sweet butter

1/2 tsp. minced garlic

Salt and pepper, to taste

Pork Chops

4 pork chops, 10 ounces each, bone in

3 Tbsp. grapeseed oil

2 sprigs thyme

3 cloves garlic

2 Tbsp. sweet butter

Vegetables

1/2 cup English peas, shelled

12 baby leeks, white only, sliced in half

Finishing salt (gray or granular sea)

Preparation:

Pork Jus

The pork jus is made by sweating out the carrot, onion, leek, garlic, and apple and pear with a pinch of salt until soft -- use a heavy bottom sauce pot over low heat.

Then add the apple juice, Domaine Chandon Reserve Brut and Domaine Chandon Chardonnay. Reduce until almost dry then add the roasted pork bones and pork stock. Bring to a simmer, do not let boil! Reduce at a simmer for two hours.

Next strain off the vegetables and fruit, and add peppercorns and juniper berries, bring back to a simmer (during entire simmering process, make sure to remove any white foam (called skum) and brush sides of pot with wet brush to remove the sauce that will stick to the side of the pot during reduction) until sauce consistency is reached (this is gauged by dipping a spoon into the sauce and when you run your finger on the back of the spoon you should have straight edges). Do not let boil! Then strain one more time through fine sieve.

Mushrooms

To cook the black trumpet mushrooms (oyster mushrooms may be substituted), heat an eight-inch saut pan to medium high heat, add grapeseed oil.

When oil is hot, add the cleaned, patted dry mushrooms (if mushrooms are still wet they could possibly flame up) with a pinch of salt. Cook until liquid evaporates, then add the shallots and butter. When shallots are caramelized, add the garlic. Season with salt and pepper, place on a paper towel to absorb extra oil, and set aside.

Procedures

Pre-heat a conventional oven to 420 degrees.

Bring a sauce pot filled with water to a boil and add salt, enough so you can taste it.

Next, bring the pork chops out and let them temper at room temperature for about 15-20 minutes.

Bring a 12-inch saut pan to a medium high heat and add about three tablespoons of grapeseed oil. When oil is hot, season the meat with salt and pepper and place in saut pan. Reduce heat to medium and let chops caramelize.

Once caramelized, add the garlic and thyme and butter, turn over and place in the oven. They should take about eight to ten minutes to cook through (an internal temperature can be taken to ensure doneness to your liking with an instant read thermometer. In this instance you want it to read about 150 to 165 degrees Fahrenheit).

While the chops are cooking, place the peas and leeks in the boiling water and cook for one minute, then remove to a paper towel to remove excess water. Then heat an eight-inch saut pan to medium high heat, when hot add about one tablespoon of grapeseed oil to the pan. When oil is hot add the mushrooms, peas and leeks. Cook for a couple of minutes, season with salt and pepper and remove to a paper towel to remove excess oil.

Once chops are done, let rest in a warm place for about five minutes, this will help them from bleeding out the juices when you slice for plating.

Plating:

Place four plates in warm oven for one minute to remove any chill. Slice the end of each chop into seven thin slices and place on paper towel.

Take the chops and place bone up on back side of each plate. Place the vegetables in front and fan the slices on top.

Sauce the plate with the pork jus in front of the fanned chop and garnish with finishing salt.

Yield: 4 servings

Wine pairing suggested: Domaine Chandon Reserve Brut or Domaine Chandon Carneros Reserve

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