After "Sideways" hit movie screens last year, many words were written and spoken about pinot noir and merlot, and some articles and seminars even tried to compare the two wines.

It's an unfair comparison, said Burke Owens, associate curator of wine at Copia, during a recent presentation to members of WineSpirit, a Napa-based organization that brings people together to celebrate life's precious moments, at Darioush Winery.

"They're two different wines," he said. "In boxing you have lightweights and heavyweights, and each has a champion. It's the same with merlot and pinot noir. Each is distinct in itself."

In presenting "The Sideways Allure of Pinot Noir," Owens described the origins and characteristics of each and said pinot noir "has something that is smoldering, sexy and merlot is like John Wayne going to rescue people."

Further describing the differences between the two grapes while explaining their histories, Owens said pinot noir was developed by monks, while merlot was nurtured by people in the mercantile business. "There was a different mindset."

Another WineSpirit member, Paul Wagner, who has conducted several seminars for the organization, added, "Bordeaux (merlot) was made by bankers, Burgundy (pinot noir) was made by gardeners."

The reference came from the description of the Burgundy region of France, which is smaller than Bordeaux and is made up of many small vineyards and producers of small quantities, while Bordeaux tends toward larger estates with greater production.

Big bankers, small S&Ls

Wagner later elaborated on his banking reference to Bordeaux where cabernet sauvignon is the predominant grape on the left bank of the Gironde River and merlot is primarily on the right bank, saying that big bankers are on the left bank, while small savings and loans are on the right bank.

"Pinot noir is a tough grape to work with," Owens said, while "merlot is easier to grow. You can get a decent vintage out of Bordeaux more than half the time."

Owens said the "sweet spot" for pinot noir in Burgundy, where the finest pinot noirs are made, is a relatively tiny area and is dependent on a combination of climate, water and the makeup of the soil. Although these elements, often referred to as terroir, are important to any wine being made, Owens said they come together in a perfect combination in this small area of Burgundy.

He guided guests through a tasting of Darioush merlot and pinot noir. It was a special treat, because the winery doesn't produce pinot for commercial sale, and the pinot noir tasted isn't even sold at the tasting room. "It's a one-time thing," said David White, executive director of WineSpirit.

Owens referred repeatedly to the perfume-like aromas in pinot noir and encouraged guests to describe the aromas they smelled. One guest said he picked up a crayon-like aroma, and Owens acknowledged that there may be a "rotten character" to pinot noir, but hastily said, "I'm not saying it in a derogatory tone." He added, "When you open a 30-year-old bottle (of pinot noir), the aroma fills the room."

He said his goal was to get the audience to look deeper into the wine, to see what they feel from tasting and smelling it -- "How does pinot noir affect you?" -- and one person commented, "It (the pinot noir) is like a young love."

He asked people to try to pick up on the oak flavors and aromas as they tried the two wines and explained that it's easier to pick up the oak in merlot because less merlot fruit comes through -- "You have to search to find the fruit but pinot noir can take more oak because it can still show the fruit."

'Drink it on its own'

"Pinot noir goes with so many foods," Owens said, "but to enjoy it best, drink it on its own. When I have merlot I feel like I want something to eat, but pinot I can just drink."

One guest asked, "What is it about merlot that makes it so popular?" Wagner responded, "When merlot was introduced people were told it's like cabernet but not as harsh."

As the evening drew to a close, one thing remained clear -- people who like pinot noir will continue to like it, and those who prefer merlot will keep their preferences. But, as Owens said, it's like trying to compare apples and oranges.

The WineSpirit fall series of discussions continues tonight at 7 at Grgich Hills Cellar, featuring Sondra Barrett, noted scientist-photographer whose microscopic images of wine molecules have been widely published, and Phil Bilodeau of Grgich Hills, speaking on "The Soul of Wine."

For information, go to www.winespirit.org or call 261-8715.